Liz's Lines

French Countryside Collection www.creativedestinations.net

                  Les Liaisons Delicieuses www.cookfrance.com

Guide – Context Travel – 800-691-6036 – shopping, tours

Cooking School – École de Cuisine Alain Ducasse – www.ecolecuisine-alainducasse.com

NOTE Roissy-Charles DeGaulle new terminal 2G 15 min by bus – for Florence, Verona etc

Paris Driving to Beaune – 3 ½ hrs, Avignon – 8-9 hrs, Montbazon – 3 ½ hrs

          Trebeurden – 6-7 hrs, Versailles – 10 miles west – 30 min each way

Bateaux - **Le Don Juan II www.yachtsdeparis.fr – very pricey

Capitaine Fracasse value/children www.lecapitainefracasse.com

Bateaux Mouches – economical dinner cruises – Port d’Alma

Bateaux Parisiens – expensive dinner cruise – Port de la Bourdonnais - Prowse

Vendettes du Pont Neuf – Seine cruises, snack bar – commentary – 1 hr

Luxury barge – Nouvelle Etoile – 800-245-1950

Rentals A la Carte Paris www.alacarte-paris-apartments.com Chez Vous www.chezvous.com

             Guest Apartment Service www.guestapartment.com  Paris Prime www.parisprimerentals.com  Paris luxury www.parisluxuryrentals.com -   Marais, Trocadero

www.cedricreversade.com – St Germain, Place Etats Unis www.leclesdestgermain@free.fr

Haven in Paris www.haveninparis.com Paris Perfect www.parisperfect.com

WINE – Southern Rhone – Tardieu-Laurent buys from many sources; Fruity red Côtes-du-Rhone, Villages Les Becs Fins or slightly pricier St-Péray, Vacqueyras, Gigondas – get 2007

Bordeaux – 2000,’03,’05 get headlines – seek out 2001,’02 & especially ’04 from top châteaux

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Paris – if call taxi you pay from where they come from – often 10-15 EU, 2EU per bag

Passages of Distinction – Sari Freeman – Claridges, Powers

******************************************************************************

Airport DeGaulle – Sheraton Good, Hilton bad

**Hotel San Regis – most romantic – Harper & Belle – Freschauf/Small Luxury - deluxe

           info@selectresortsandhotels.com

Hôtel Vernet - JDB - *restaurant – mod deluxe – 50 rms, recent overhaul - rest

**Balzac – Preferred Hotels and above 866 – mod deluxe

**Le Meurice – 1st – between Place de la Concorde & Louvre & opp Tuileries on Rue de Rivoli

        Signature upgrade, American breakfast room or rest - 800-650-1842 – industry fav

                      Rep Philippe Moulinier philippe.moulinier@lemeurice.com - deluxe    

**Park Hyatt Paris-Vendome – Deluxe - 2nd – very expensive -  super spa **Harper ‘14 

**Ritz Paris – Mandarin Oriental - Mgr Stephanie Clarke Stephanie.clarke@ritzparis.com

                      Superior deluxe

**Le Bristol – deluxe – mohresser@lebristol.com

**Ritz -

**Hotel Crillon – 8th – LHW – sup deluxe

**Plaza Athenée – Dorchester Collection – 800-650-1842 – deluxe – closing 10/13-

      6/14 for addition next door, not renovation

**Hotel De La Trémoille – sister to Plaza Athenée - Preferred

**Four Seasons George V – sup deluxe

**Peninsula – new on Ave Kléber – LiLi – high-end Cantonese rest – dramatic – fab pool

**Le Raphael – low key 16th left bank

**Mandarin Oriental – very exp – Rue St.-Honoré – great spa

**Shangri-La – Harper ’13 – superb, very exp- Eiffel views - 2* L’Abeille rest - other

      2 also exc – perfect rms – pool exc, spa great

Astor Saint-Honoré - deluxe

Le Royal Monceau, a Raffles Hotel – deluxe – next door Le Privé houses 5 grand apartments

      Next door the Piscine and cabanas are now Hotel Molitor

**Prince de Galles – Ave George V – deluxe - ** Harper ’14 – restored – true Art Deco

La Réserve – new by Elysses Palace -

**Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal – exp – 68 refreshed rms, now 5* - ** Harper ‘14

       Rms with views of Louvre & Tuilleries

**Sofitel le Faubourg – good location near US Embassy - deluxe

De Vendome – mod deluxe

Scribe – deluxe

**Hotel Marignan Champs-Elysees - deluxe

*Sofitel Arc de Triomphe – deluxe

Residence Maxims de Paris – mod deluxe

Renaissance Le Parc Trocadero - deluxe

*Starhotels Hotel Castille – family quarters – Belle – wide price range – RDM – deluxe

*Marriott Ambassador Opera – families – guarantee connecting rms

*Saint James Paris – exp www.saint-james-paris.com – mod deluxe - ** Harper ’14 –

    19th cent limestone mansion, magnificent gardens, 48 rms – not central for 1st timers

Hotel Baltimore – mod deluxe – Ave Kleber

**Le Burgundy – 51 rms, 8 stes, smallest 5* - near Place Vendôme - mini palace

***********************

**De Vigny – 866-672-2496 – sup 1st class

*Marignan – 8th arr – 50 rms, Eiffel views

Hotel Costes – sup 1st class – in the 1st

Concorde Opera Paris – sup 1st class 

Hotel Louvre Montana – sup 1st class

Hotel du Louvre – sup 1st class – now Hyatt

Edouard VII – ave de L’Opera – sup 1st class

Hilton Arc de Triomphe – sup 1st class

Le Meridien – Etoile – sup 1st class

Le Claridge Champs-Elysees Frasier suites – sup 1st class

Renaissance Paris Vendome – sup 1st class

Hotel Pershing Hall – sup 1st class – mixed reviews

Millennium Hotel Paris Opera – sup 1st class

Lotti – renovated – sup 1st class

Westminster Opera – sup 1st class

Warwick Champs Elysees – sup 1st class

Edouard VII – (2nd) rep Dominique D – sup 1st class

Paris Marriott Champs Elysees – sup 1st class

Hôtel Daniel – 8th – moderate eclectic, quiet, exp – Ave Montaigne – sup 1st

Terrass Hotel – 18th – sup 1st class

Concorde Lafayette – Now Hyatt

Hotel Dupond-Smith – 4th arr – 5 rms. 3 stes – original design furniture

Misc Others

Jay’s Paris – 5 stes, 16th arr – Louis XIV antiques – magical, top staff – gets guests

   Into clubs, private shopping & new shows

**Hotel Lancaster – Harper/Belle – romantic

*Intercontinental Grand Hotel – old Grand hotel

Westin – old Intercontinental – Starwood

La Maison Champs Élysées – elegant & eccentric, chic

Plaza Paris Vendome – Belle

Saint-James & Albany

Fouquet’s Barrière – hot on the Champs corner www.fouquets-barriere.com 

Hotel de Castiglione – St Honoré – 1st class

Hotel Prince de Galles

*Le Pavillon des Lettres – 26 rooms, modern, named after writers – mod – 2 penthouse

           In 8th close to Champs – Harper – sister of Pavillon de la Reine

**Pavillion de la Reine – 9th – Marais – Harper – sup 1st class

Hotel Les Jardins du Marais – sup 1st class

Marais House – insider’s spot, - 1 room per floor – www.maraishouse.com 

Unnamed bed-and-breakfast – in Marais www.smartsleep@aol.com

Hotel des Deux-Iles - St Louis

Jeu de Paume – best on St. Louis

Hotel de Lutece – Iles St Louis

Hotel Saint-Louis En L’Isle – thoughtful details

More others

Sezz – 15th  

Costes K – 1st class – in the 16th

Maison Souqiet – near Pigalle – 5 * boutique – 20 lavish, small rms

Les Bains Douches – arts-based club near nightlife -

*Mama Shelter – raves & for rest – in the 20th – pretty far outside city – cheap, hip

Le Relais du Louvre – Belle – living like a Parisian – mod – au-relais-du-louvre@dial.oleane.com

Hotel de Vendome - moderate

Le Relais St.-Honoré – 1st, hip

Hotel Lorette Opera – 9th near Opera & major stores – La Belle

Hotel du Petit Moulin 3rd – LaCroix project – La Belle

L’Élysée-Matignon – former bordello, mod, Art Deco

CHEAP

9th cheap stays – Banke Hôtel – charming, opulent www.derbyhotels.com

  Hôtel Amour – fashionable, cheeky www.hotelamourparis.fr

Hôtel Jules – small, well-kitted rooms www.hoteljules.com  Hôtel Joyce www.astotel.com

Hotel de l’Elysee – ok cheap

Hotel Splendid Etoile – inexp near Arc

Hotel Regence Etoile – inexp near Arc

6th GEMS

**Esprit Saint Germain – Janine Cifelli – sup 1st class

  laurence.tafanel@espritsaintgermain.com  m.escartin@espritsaintgermain.com

**Le Recamier – Deneuve lives near – get larger rm, #62, stylish, classic comfort

**Hôtel L’Abbaye – good in 6th – Get a larger room – 1st class

**Hôtel des Grandes Écoles – gem near Pantheon - budget

**Hôtel Relais-Saint Germain – 6th – good moderate – Harper – 1st class

**Hôtel Du Danube Saint-Germain – moderate

**Hôtel Verneuil – inexp, chic small rooms in 7th – 3 flrs have A/C

**Hôtel des Saints-Peres – 6th - cheap insider secret – get Fresco room, largest, most exp

                                       www.esprit-de-france.com       

*Pont Royal –7th - World Hotels 800-223-5652 – gets accolades - by Montalembert

**The Montalembert – 7th – get upgraded room or they’re small – Preferred – sup 1st class

Hotel Bel Ami – popular www.hotel-bel-ami.com – cheap – Belle – rep Dominique D

Duc de St. Simon – was nice – 1st class

**Hotel d’Aubusson – Harper – Fils Franck – large rms, all diff, bit tired – good loc – BEST

               Only 1st class rating – ’12 Harper – superb – contact – Janna Heathcote

               % Mark @ Mark@jhhotels.com  310-275-1566  

Relais Hotel du Vieux Paris – gets raves & Francoise – Latin Quarter – 1st class

Le Colbert – JDB

L’Hôtel de Suede

Le Saint Hotel - ?

Le Six Saint Germain – sup 1st class

Le Sainte-Beuve – 1st class

**Le Placide – near Bon Marche, 11 rms, will combine for inexp family suite

Bourgogne Et Montana – cheap – Belle likes

L’Hôtel – 6th – famous, neo-classic – mod deluxe

Duo Paris www.duoparis.com cheap, recommended by Sherman

Hotel Le A - www.paris-hotel-a.com – recently renovated               “

Hotel du Petit Moulin www.paris-hotel-petitmoulin.com          “

La Villa – 6th

*Relais Christine – 6th – Harper – sup 1st class

Francois 1er hotel - renovated

*Victoria Palace – large near Montparnasse – nice for families – sup 1st class

Grand Hotel de l’Univers – ok cheap

Hotel Saint-Germain-des-Pres – basic but ok – Belle – not recommended

*Lutetia-Concorde – faded – Mod deluxe – an upgrade

Bellechasse – Christian LaCroix designed in St Germain - small rms

Luxembourg Parc – nice moderate – rm #26

Relais St-Suplice – edge of St-Germain-de-Pres – 26 rms, friendly, a bit faded

Le Littre – 1st class – family-run – 6th – Daphne Warner

Brighton – 1st class

Artus Hotel (old Buci) – moderate – La Belle

Hotel Dauphine St Germain – 1st class

Hotel Saint Thomas d’Aquin – cheap on quiet street – Belle   

Hotel de Fleurie – small rooms, not rec

Le Notre Dame – Lacroix makeover – high mod

5th inexpensive

Hotel des Grands Hommes – opposite Pantheon – plush, neoclassic – for view, balcony upgrade

   To a superior

Hotel Les Jardins Du Luxembourg – 26 tidy, spare rms – warm – quiet on cul-de-sac

Apartments

Rue de Varenne – 7th – Small & Elegant

AUTOUR – go Sundays when museums crowded – Île de France 50 miles any direction of Paris

Bois de Boulogne – 16th, W edge of Paris near Ave Foch – Longchamp track

   Bagatelle Gardens – Petit Château of Louis XVI brother – Compte d’Artois

    Dine at 2* Pré Catelan – outdoor fantasy, 1*Grande Cascade – beautiful tourist trap, for tea

Saint-Germain-en-Laye – Hotel La Forestière – res. Cazaudehore

                                          Pavillion Henry IV

*Versailles –

Trianon Palace – dine Le Trois Marches/Brasserie du Theatre/La Flotille - deluxe

   Don’t reserve dreary “Pavillon” www.starwood.com – 12 mi/30 min Paris - Harper

Pullman Versailles Chateau – 1st class

Fontainebleau – Gare de Lyon – 45 min – 15 min on shuttle - L’Aigle Noir – Belle says best

                            Harper – have lunch at Le Pouilly – Pouilly-le-Fort near Melun

Milly-la-Forêt – near Fontainebleau forest – rest. La Mousier

St-Symphorien-de-Chateau - nr Chartres – Chateau d’Esclimont www.esclimont.com

Chartres -56 mi SW Paris –Train from Montparnasse – Cathedral not crowded – guide Malcolm   Miller

Le Grand Monarque www.bw-grand-monarque.com  - best on lovely estate, 44 rms -   Hotel Mercure – near train - - Rest Henry IV, La Ville Maison, La Buisson Ardent, Café Serpente, Tavern – L’Estocade

Courances

Auvers-sur-Oise – Rest - Hostellerie du Nord, Auberge du Chou, Maison Van Gogh

Bougival – 20 min Paris – rest Le Camelia, very French, Coq Hardi

Boulogne-Billancourt – Hauts-de Seine – Rest -Gerard Pangaud - elegant, Au Comte du    

              Gascogne, La Bretonnière

Barbizon – near Fontainebleau –1 hr Paris –

 Hostellerie du Bas-Breau & exc rest, sleek, rustic

                 Les Alouettes, Hostellerie Clé d’Or - Harper 20 rm Auberge Les Pléiades, rest 1*Les   

                Pléiades and rest L’Atelier - exc

Chantilly – 30 mi N Paris – See Château & park, Musée Vivant du Cheval –

**Auberge du Jeu de Paume – exp, exc rest - Relais – good arrival, departure spot

          Rest - Prix de Diane-Hermes, Le Relais Condé – 9 tables, out of Hansel & Gretel

Giverny – 60 Km Paris (Normandy) – see 2 gardens 1. Water garden, 2. Clos Normand

                Lunch at Château de la Corniche –

               Gasny – Auberge St-Eustache

Rollebois

Pacy-sur-Eure-Douains – SW of Vernon, near Giverny

                *Château de Brécourt – 23 rms, park setting, pleasant rest.

Château Cezy – 40 min SW Paris – Lavish wine, dine, ballooning - $1700 3 nites

Château de Compiègne – near perfection

Chatou – 20 min W – Seine Island – Maison Fournaise

Cherence – Hostellerie St-Denis – cheap

Clichy – 17th – Hautes Seine – Barrière de Clichy

Cormeilles-en-Vexin – Relais St Jeanne – exc rest

Compiègne Forêt – Past DeGaulle – Auberge du Etangs du Buissonet – charming terrace dining

Château d’Ecouen – Houses Musée of French renaissance

Châteaufort – Rest La Belle Époque

Moret-sur-Loiny – Au Moulin – inexp hotel, good rest – L’Ecru de France – good rest

Ermenoville – Le Prieure  

Enghien-les-Bains – 12 mi, 40 min central Paris – dream world of Norman cottages, pseudo  Gothic castles, rococo villages - racetrack and casino

                                Grand Hotel Barriere www.lucienbarriere.com  

                                Grand Hotel des Bains – 51 attractive rms, on lake, pool, gardens

                                   Rest Duc d’Enghien – at casino                                                                                                                       

                                Hotel du Lac

Eure-et-Loire – 18 mi W Paris, border Normandy – Château d’Anet (royal), res Maitre Corbeau

Fère-en-Tardenois – 70 mi N Paris – see Château

                 Hostellerie du Château – dream haven, sumptuous, good rest.

          Cretell – nearby – rest Pizza de Arte

La Ferté-sous-Jouaire – 66 K Paris – rest Auberge de Condé

Fontenay-Tresigny – Le Manoir

Gennevilliers – Hautes-Seine – rest Julius

L’Hay-Les-Roses – See gardens – Rest Le Chat Botté

         Picnic goods – Chuzette, Patisserie aux Delices 

Houilles – Yvelines – rest Gambretta

Livry-Gargan – Seine-St-Denis – Rest Auberge St-Quentinoise

Luzarches – Château de Chaumontel

Maisons-LaFitte – See Château, Rest La Vielle Fontaine, La Tastevin

Malmaison – Château, Pavillion Josephine

Meudon – Hauts-de-Seine – Rodin et Molitaire Musées

Montcourt-Fromonville – La Hostellerie du Trois Sources – modest

Morangis – rest Rêve d’Alsace

Nemours – S Fontainebleau – S Ervauville – rest *Le Gamin      

Neuilly-sur-Seine – Hauts-de-Seine – 15 min Paris

                             Hotel Club Méditerranée

             Rests – La Ferme de la Jatte - hip, Bourrier, Focly, Le Mandarin de Neuilly,

                          Le Manoir, Sébillion (Paris bar) – venerable brasserie

Le Pré St-Gervais –Rest - Au Pouilly Reuilly

Pontoise – hotel Novotel Cergy-Pontoise – basic, rest Jardin des Lavandiers – exp

Pouilly-le-Fort – exc lunch t Le Pouilly

Puteaux – *rest Gasnier

Rambouillet – 40-50 min SW Paris – Forests - see royal residence Louis XVI château

    Rest *Auberge Joyeux Louvetier, Au Rendezvous de Chasse, Poste, Maison de Champs –

     In a garden, Villa Marinette – 2 mi in Gazeran

Montfort-L’Amaury – lovely restored town near Rambouillet – rest Les Préjugés

Rueil-Malmaison – rest *El Chiquito

St Denis - rest Mets du Roy – lunch

Thoiry-en-Yvelines – 25 min w Paris – château – dance, meals, on African game preserve

Vaux-le-Vicomte – 17th century château

Vaux-le-Pénil – rest La Table Saint Just – exc – 40 min drive to Barbizon

**Ville-d’Avray – 15 mi West – Les Étangs de Corot – charming, ravishing country inn

Roissy-en-France – DeGaulle

Hyatt Regency – sup 1st class

Marriott – sup 1st class

Sheraton – sup 1st class                              

Pullman – 1st class – former Sofitel

Orly –

Hilton International, PLM Orly

PROVENCE – It’s the seasons – and weather! Mistral can blow all seasons but mostly in winter

          Weather beautiful until Xmas, early Jan: Jan & Feb can be biting cold and windy. Summer            Can be hot, especially July and early Aug.  Sun sets at 10P in July.

Major Cities: Avignon, Arles, Aix, Les Baux, St Remy.  Mas is a grand farmhouse en Provence

Vaucluse/Lubéron

Avignon – 6-8 hrs to Montbazon in Loire Valley.. TGV 4 hrs from Paris, 6 hr drive

                 62 Mi to Marseilles; in Rhone Valley – circle city to find entrance to your hotel –

                 Can’t drive in; abandon car and have hotel park it

** La Mirande - deluxe - behind Papal Palace, exc baths – Harper ’14 – 27 rms – exc rest –

        Cooking lessons – new addition deluxe rms have best garden views

** Hotel de d’Europe – deluxe – lovely, exquisite rms, some with terraces – wonderful public

        Areas, al fresco patio cocktails – great staff, built 1580 – exc rest

Le Cloître St Louis – mod, #141 for views but small other level bath

 Hotel de L’Horloge - charming 3*

Sofitel Pont d’Avignon – 4*

Bristol Terminus

Midi – Inter-Hotel

Danieli de Blauvac – 2 km NW, petit Palais

Per Francoise - Beaumes de Venise: (30 min NE Avignon).  Beautiful house with spectacular views.  5BR-4 baths and 2 half baths.  Very well furnished - country Provençal antiques. 

Villeneuve-les-Avignon - 2 km NW

**Hostellerie Le Prieure (Relais) wonderful, overlooks Rhone *rest

Hostellerie du Vieux Moulin

*La Magnaneraie

*Hotel de L’Atelier – a gem, moderate

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse – E of Avignon, area of powerful waterfalls from underground springs –

   Hike on up

Parc Hotel

Mane – 60 miles E of Avignon

Le Couvent des Minimes Hotel & Spa by l’Occitane – on a hillside, former convent

   Upscale, 46 rms, heated pool, terraced gardens - spa

Le Pontet – 5 min Avignon – 3 km NE

Auberge de Cassagne – (du Silence) – 1* rest

Agassins (Chateaux Hotels)

Monteux – near Avignon

    Res *Le Saule Pleurer

Montfavet – 5.5 km East

**Hostellerie Les Frênes – (Relais) or JDB (Petra)

Le Thor – SE Avignon

La Bastide Rose – Pierre Salinger’s creation from a beautiful former marble-yard bldg

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue – week-end antique dealers

Lubéron – heart is triangle pf Gordes, Roussillon, & Joucas – Bonnieux, Goult and Ménerbes

                   Are all within 30 minutes of Gargas

Roussillon – Love this high-up ochre village – wonderful craft, pottery shops – 12 km Gordes

     Very crowded in summer – June & Sep best – charming village square with cafés – red cliffs

Residence des Ocres

2 km North –

**Mas de Garrigon – 8 rms, outstanding bargain - *rest – most outstanding, charming area

    Budget hotel – a mini-Mas des Herbes Blanches

Oppède-le-Vieux – between Gordes & Rousillon – picturesque, E of Cavaillon

   Rest – Le Gite de Chez Pascal

Near Gordes, Rousillon

 Gargas –

 **La Coquillade (Francoise) – mod – like Terre Blanche, smaller – 70 acres – 6 rennov farm

    Houses – Jr ste wonderful – nice pool, *rest 1 gastronomic, 1 Le Bistrot – Harper ‘12

 Gordes –

Hostellerie le Phebus – 1* rest 4*

Domaine de L’Enclos (Relais) I stayed – stone cottages, pool, tennis – down the hill - *rest

   Check out as may have deteriorated - select special separate lodgings, i.e. my Olivier

*La Mayanelle (Relais) great Lubéron views - *rest

 Les Bories

** La Bastide de Gordes – wonderful – spa – magnificent – 3* Rest

Le Gordos – small, informal inn by the Bastide

Joucas – 6 km E Gordes

**Le Mas des Herbes Blanches (Relais)

*Hostellerie le Phébus – prestige stes have private pools - *rest

Ménerbes – W Bonnieux

   **Bastide de Marie 45 min SE Avignon – Harper

**Grenache – in vineyards outside, neighbor of Bastide – 5 BR, 5 bath rental property,

     18th cent stone house – exquisite furnishings www.c-h-m.com

Bonnieux – 12 km SW Apt – S Gordes

La Sara cooking class in a small house, few accommodations

Bastide de Capelongue – (Relais) – old farmhouse

Maison Atmosphere – fab, not too exp villa rental – A&K

Le Prieuré - *rest

L’Aiguebrun - ** rest & hotel

Lourmarin – S of Bonnieux – beautiful village, castle

**Les Olivettes – rave reviews

Le Moulin de Lourmarin – state of art converted olive mill, *rest

Auberge de la Fenière – in Lubéron hills – 7 charming, rustic rms, pool, *rest

Noves – 13 km south – pretty on ochre cliffs – 40 min W Roussillon

**Auberge de Noves - *rest

VAUCLUSE - NORTH

Châteauneuf-du-Pape – N Avignon – 10 km S Orange – Pere Anselme Vinery –

     Degustations – les vins fines

**Hostellerie des Fines Roches - *Rest

Uchaux – 20 mi N Avignon – amid Châteauneuf vineyards

Château de Massillan (Hauteville) – very stylish, 17 rms – lovely - *rest

   Get a ste – some rms small

Orange – Gateway to the Midi – 81 Mi Marseilles

Arêne – (du Silence)

Louvre et Terminus

Castillon du Gard – mi Pont – between Nimes & Avignon – tiny Provençal hill town dating

          From the 13th & 14th centuries - good base to explore Orange, Nimes, Avignon, Arles,

           Uzes, Le Baux, Châteauneuf du Pape

**Le Vieux Castillon – (Relais) Friendly service, series of 4-5 medieval homes - *rest

   Fine luxe – great location, feel of village life – best rms 10, 20, 26, 42 *rest\

Sommières – SW near Nimes – wonderful medieval walled city – Wed, Sat markets

Just outside – L’Enclos Montgranier – lovely terrace

Pont du Gard – W of Avignon, NE Nimes – nearby Roman ruins, aqueduct - magnificent

Le Vieux Moulin – on river, private beach – exc Rest

Le Bègude Saint-Pierre – 30 rms, less than a km from the Pont – nice, mod - *ext rest

Nimes – just west – See Ardeche (way down)

Beaucaire

    L’Hotel des Doctirinaires – exc dining room, best hotel 

Uzès – little-known treasure – west in GARD -  One of France’s prettiest towns – treasure – 8 mi Pont – See Gorges de la Ceze, Gorges of Garden – visit Place aux Heches arcades, 16th & 18th Cent mansions, Fenestrelle Tower, The Duché – 25 miles W of Avignon

  Entraigues – good rest

**La Maison d’Uzès – Harper ’14 – 12 rms – in set of 17th cent restored houses – exc rest –

       Small spa – get rm at back near elevator if mobility issues

Le Clos du Lèthé – mod

L’Artémise – mod

La Maison d’Ulysse – mod – rustic French chic - mod

  St Genie - cheap     

Apaillargues – 4.5 km west

    *Hotel Marie d’Agout

Chateau de St.-Maximin – just outside

Rochegude – Hr N Avignon

  Château Rochegude – (Relais) once a nobleman’s fortress – lovely setting – check on

    Grounds upkeep, rest

Tavel – NW Avignon, NE Pont du Gard – charming town

Bollene – 23 km N Orange

Mondragon – rest **La Beaugravière

Vaison-La-Romaine – north – typical Provençal town – flowers, sun, plane trees, Tue mkt

L’Hôtel du Beffroi – Ravishing 16th cent setting, gardens, hillside terrace - *rest

Logis du Château

Burrhus – modest

Sault – S of Vaison – Rte St Trinit, *rest Deffends

Entrechaux – SE Vaison

Hostellerie La Manescade – tasteful, old barn, pool, al fresco dining

Seguret – 9.5 km SW Vaison – charming hill town

Rests - La Table du Comtat, *Le Mesclune

Le Domaine du Cabasse – a few rms, *rest

Gigondas –

Hotel les Florets – 15 rms by vineyard, pleasant, inexp

Apt - see winery, Chateau de Mille – 10 km Rousillon – typical Provencal small town,

       Ochre production, Sat. mkt Apt – hr E of Avignon – just outside La Bastide –

 6 BR – can rent thru Unique Properties & Events www.cedricreversade.com 

Le Ventoux - *rest

Domaine des Andéols – JDB

Chateau de Massillan

Carpentras –

Crillon-le-Brave – 45 min Avignon

**Hostellerie Crillon le Brave – delicious views, whimsical indiv. Décor - *rest

Modene –

**Villa Noria www.villanoria.com  - B&B Francoise rec near Crillon le Brave

Manosque - 40 km E Apt – pottery factory – Feret de Moustiers

La Fuste – 8 km E Manosque

*Hostellerie de la Fuste – beautiful farmhouse - *rest

BOUCHES-DU-RHONE

St Rémy-de-Provence – Good place to settle in – the scent of wild herbs – lively town

Hostellerie du Vallon de Valrugues – several blocks from center – comfort, small baths,

   Nice pool, tennis – comfortable, tiny baths - ok

 **Hotel Chateau des Alpilles - (Chateaux Hotels) – charming 19th cent - *rest

 *Domaine de Valmouriane – bike group *Harper – comfortable, dignified Provençal

     Stone manor – warm, intimate, antiques - *rest

Chateau de Roussan – mod, big old-fashioned country house

Paluds-de-Noves – 10 km N St Rémy – 10 min drive

*La Maison – on lonely hillside amid vineyards – old-fashioned Mas, beautiful pool, bikes, 13

    Rms, stes- serene

Tarascon –

Provençal

Petit Rte de Tarascon

*Mas de la Chapelle - *rest – good, Meg liked – very small, get room by pool (Chat Hotels)

Eygalières-en-Provence – 7 mi E St Remy

Mas de la Brune

Chez Bru

Mas Dou Pastre - cheap

Salon de Provence – 34 km St Remy – congested, unattractive

*Abbaye de Sainte-Croix (Relais) rm 9-12 great Abbaye views – dramatic above town, not great

    Rest

Le Calendral – moderate

Le Barben – 8 km SE Salon – see zoo & chateau

Hotel La Touloubre (Silence) *rest – great ambiance & food

Lambesc – 21 Km E Salon

Moulin de Vernègues – simple rms – old mill – cook over a fire

Arles – 37 km Avignon, 59 mi Marseilles – Gateway to Camargue – the soul of Provence

**Hotel Jules César – (Relais) central, mod, glass bar floor, *rest Lou Marques,

       Heated pool – BRs small & dark

*D’Arlatan – some like best – no rest – not luxe but comfortable – no elevator

Grand Hôtel Nord-Pinus – gets raves from celebs as best, most charming – high mod

*Hotel Calendel – utterly charming, around corner from Arena – get garden view – inexp 2*

*Villages du Soleil – newer, roof garden pool, bright, plain rms – ok

Hotel L’Atrium

L’Hôtel Particulier – sup 1st class

Hotel Sainte Trophime – tastefully remodeled, good, reasonable

Hotel du Forum – by the action – splendid & seedy - cheap & basic

Le Cloître - cheap

Raphèle – 4 km SE Arles

Auberge de la Fenière – (Silence)

Les Baux – rocky skeleton of a city growing out of eerie stones – an immense pile of stone

 It rises above dense scrub – topped by a ruined chateau and ghost town. Inhabited village next

  Door – La Ville More – is a living middle ages museum – 20 Mi S Avignon

**Ousteau de Baumanière - (Relais) internationally renowned as luxe, rustic retreat – massive

      Hearths, authentic Renaissance - #6 great views, small baths, delightful ***rest

      Don’t stay in annex

La Cabro D’Or – (Relais) sister ok 2nd choice – more moderate, friendly, happy, chic

*Mas d’Aigret – foot of chateau ruins – Hawley, Tourville liked, Goone not – said dirty,

   Food not good – food basic

La Benvengudo

L’Hostellerie de la Reine Jeanne – modest

Bautezar – 10 rms - charming

Fontvielle – 10 km E Arles – Christmas market town

 Château d’Estoubion – buy excellent wines and olive oils

**Augerge La Regalido (Relais) – an isle of delightful ambiance, charming inn, pretty flower

    Garden

A La Grace de Dieu – 10 rms, good, simple meals

Aix – 80 km SE Avignon – famous music festival – TGV – 45 min-hour

Sanctuary Retreats www.sanctuaryretreats.com

**Villa Gallici – 22 rms - wonderful

 *Le Pigonnet – Elegant & welcoming – 6 blocks from Cours – charming, country-like, terrace,

   Garden, good dining (Hotel Pullman) – Rep MF – Moira Fitzpatrick

*Hotel St Augustine – rec by Pigonnet – beautiful 12th cent convent – chicest address in town

 Hotel Paul Cezanne – 3*, comfortable, rms differ greatly

 *28 à Aix – mod –exp – 4 guest rooms in a mansion with garden – town center 

                             www.28aaix.com

Bastide du Cours – 4 rms, great Cours views – no elevator, sexy – *bistro

 La Pauline – B&B mod on 20 acres of gardens www.lapauline.fr

Relais Saint Victoire – 10 rms atop Mount Sainte-Victoire – cozy, *rest

Manoir

Hotel Cardinal – moderate, homey

Hotel des Quatre Dauphins – a small jewel 3 blocks from Cours -

Nègre-Coste – funky grandeur, slightly dilapidated, moderate, pleasant staff

Hotel des Thermes – read doctor’s prescription – elderly, hospital-like

Residence Rotonde – bad, bad

Vauvenarges – just NW Aix above St Victoire Mt

Au Moulin de Provence – lovely food and solitude

Celony – 3 km NW

*Mas d’Entremont - *rest – a charming bargain

Beaurecueil – 10 km E

*Mas de la Bertrande

Meyrargues – N

Château de Meyrargues - *rest

Mane-en-Provence –

Couvert des Minimes Hôtel & Spa - mod

EAST AIX TO NICE ON LOWER CORNICHE E80

Brignoles – N of Hyères, East of Aix

La Celle – near Brignoles

**Hostellerie de l”Abbaye de la Celle – in an old Benedictine abbey – **chef Ducasse

      Lovely décor – 5 rms have private balconies overlooking pool, magnificent grounds
     Harper ’14 -

CAMARGUE – can take day trips from Arles (Camargue Voyages) – simple, outdoor life,

  Inexpensive – cheaper than Riviera – Bouches du Rhone & Ardeche

Le Sambuc –(Arles) heart of Camargue

**Le Mas de Peint – 1st class – Pigeonnier ste – beautiful pool, horses - superb food,

       Working ranch

Hotel de Cacharel – pool & horses, no rest – charming, less exp

Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer – (Saintes) 45 min S Arles – white-washed village capital –

   Like end of the world – Gypsy annual religious pilgrimage

*Auberge Cavalière - *rest

*Étrier Camarquais - *rest – Hawleys liked

Pont de Bannes – range rider cabins

Boumian – Arles Rd – range rider atmosphere – *rest

Mas du Roseaux – popular

Hostellerie du Mas de Cacharel – remote outside town – 10 rms, riding

Mas du Clarousett

Route de Petit Rhone

 **Lodge de la Fouque (former Mas) modern white-washed ranch – wildlife views, luxe –

     Sports, riding, tennis, bikes - beautiful pool, 12 lovely, romantic rms – Palm rm – private

     Deck, Lagoon suite – huge tub - **rest

Aigues-Mortes – 25 min from la Fouque – marvelous walled city, restores – Ardeche – touristy

   Lots of sportswear shops,  

Hostellerie Les Remparts – 18th cent – lovely furnishings - *rest

Hotel les Templiers - *rest

Saint-Louis

Provence-Alpes

Cassis –

Chateau de Cassis www.chateaudecassis.com

HAUTE PROVENCE – Var – mountains – train from Nice-Digne

Sisteron – 75 mi N Aix – gateway between Provence & Haute – drive thru Lubéron mts,

                 Along Durance River – see Alps: Sightsee La Citadelle fortress – in nearby Vilhosc

                 Visit 11th cent priory remains – Wed market

Château-Arnoux – 14 km SE Sisteron above Lake Escale on the Durance – pretty town

                               ½ ways between Nice, Grenoble

*Bonne Étape – (Relais) warm welcome, lovely rms & pool - *rest

Enroute to Digne on train which runs every 3 hrs –

Entrevaux – 1 ½ hrs Nice – massive ramparts with fabulous views

Annot – 20 more min – gothic stone houses, cafés, hotels here

Meailles – medieval town

Digne-Les-Bains – modest thermal spa in sub-Alps – delightful town – 300 days of sun

                               Wed & Sat Markets – 30 min Sisteron – Blvd Gassendi meeting spot

*Ermitage Napoleon – best, *rest

Grand Paris

Le Petit Saint-Jean – modest, good

Forcalquier – N Manosque – Mon market

Manosque – 54 km NE Aix – castle Le Chateaux de Temptien

Greoux – rest Le Café

La Cremaillère – pretty – luxe & moderate

Mane –

Le Couvert des Minimes – Harper – exc rest - pricey – charming, luxe

*Mas Saint-Luc

Banon – Tues market

Reillanne –

L’Auberge de Reillanne – nice rms, *rest

Riez – W. Moustiers – not great scenery – modest Roman ruins

Hotel des Alpes – only hotel, food good

Moustiers Ste.-Marie – hr 45 min Roussillon – beautiful site – 15th cent village – steep hills,

          Waterfalls – Germans cluster here – touristy – lakes surround the town, known for

          Beautiful pottery – Atelier de Segnier, best is Atelier de Grillon, see Museum de Faience

La Bouscatière – luxe B&B – near Ste. Croix Lake

**La Bastide de Moustiers – JDB – deluxe – sophisticated comfort - *Rest

Le Relais – adequate & great views – good rest

La Bonne Auberge – nice rms & dining

Grand Canyon du Verdon – 5 minutes E of Moustiers – longest, deepest canyon in Europe

Corniche Sublime – traces the edges – veritable hair-raiser – 20 eye-popping miles – 3,500’

Straight down to wild green Verdon – drive under 35mph is safe – but forget it if have acrophobia (Take Rive Gauche – less dramatic) Best observation points: Falaise de Cavaliers, Tunnel du Fayet and Balcons de Mescla.  Drive it to Tourtour – or by-pass via Aups

Aups – charming Provençal town

Tourtour – snazzy refurbished Provençal town – orange stone – cute little restaurants, pretty

                Town square & shops

**Domaine de la Baume – 18th cent villa – exquisite gardens, rustic-chic – 99 acres of

       Olive trees – spa – Harper ’14 – need food package – pleasant & cheery

*La Bastide de Tourtour (Relais) – edge of town, top of hillside, exc service – tennis, pool –

     10 rms have private terraces, casual DR, gum, sauna – everything faces mountains - *rest

Hostellerie Les Lavandes

Lac de Ste-Croix – complete watersports, pedal boats, campsites, miniature golf – Germans

Aiguines – picturesque chateau overlooking Lac – in good repair

Trigance – 45 km NW Seillans, 70 mi NW Nice, N St Tropez

*Chateau de Trigance (Relais) – 8 rms in a 12th century castle at the edge of the Verdon Gorges –

     9th cent castle – fab views, inexp, excellent cuisine

Lorgues – 20 min Tourtour – visit Abbaye du Thoronet

Villecroze – 5 km E Tourtour – Rest Cheres Verts

Dragvignan – 27 km E Tourtour – Rest la Caleche

Grasse – 55 km E Dragvignan – 1 ½ hrs E Tourtour (see Côte D’Azur)

CÔTE D’AZUR – North to South

Menton – East border enroute Italy

  Napoleon – ideal site

   Méditerranée

  Princess et Richmond – opp seafront, terraces & sun deck

Monte Carlo – Société Des-Bains-de-Mer – SBM – 30 min Nice

 Hôtel de Paris – SBM – renovating – finish late 2018 but some rooms ready earlier

Hotel Metropole – good Robuchon rest.

Hôtel Hermitage – SBM

                         Hotel Beaulieu

                        Fairmont Monte Carlo - deluxe

                        La Vigie – exp villa www.john-taylor.fr 

                        Beach Plaza – sleek, no flair – must be seaside, private beach

                       *Columbus Monaco – moderate – sexy boutique

                        Port Palace www.portpalace.com La Belle – see Grand Prix, JDB

Monaco –

Hotel Columbus Monaco

Roquebrune (M.C. beach) –

Monte Carlo Beach Hotel – SBM, Relais - 40 rms

Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort – SBM – 334 rms, 10 acres

                       Vista Palace

                       Victoria et de la Plage

Roquebrune-Cap-Martin – old Riviera

Les Arondes – small villa - $1400 wk

Eze Village –

Chateau Eza – JDB – cluster of medieval houses – loggia best room

                       Chateau de la Chèvre d’Or - exc rest

                        Hermitage – Grand Corniche - pleasant

Eze-sur-Mer – NE Cap Ferrat

**Le Cap Estel - beautiful

Toulon –

Hotel du Castelet

St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat –

*Four Seasons Grand Hotel du Cap-Ferrat – sup deluxe - mod

Royal Riviera - deluxe

* Grace Leo-Andrieiu’s Royal Rivera – L’Orangerie 16 rm villa inside

                                        800-223-6800 www.royal-riviera.com  - LHW

*Voile d’Or – 2nd most attractive – mod deluxe

Southern Côte d’Argent – across bay from Cap Ferrat –

La Corniche – renovated hunting lodge, 12 white-on-white rms

Beaulieu-sur-Mer –

La Réserve de Beaulieu - deluxe

                                 Le Métropole – grand old world luxe

                                 Carlton

                                Hotel Frisia – modest, across from port 

Sete –

Collioure –

 Relais des Trois Mas

Villefranche – large port, cruise ships, exquisite harbors, tacky town

                         Welcome – best

                         La Fiancée du Pirate – 2nd

                         Darse – 3rd, Patricia – 4th, La Flore – 5th 

Nice –

 Le Palais de la Mediterranee – LHW www.lepalaisdelamediterranee.com – mod deluxe

           ** Hotel Negresco - deluxe

            *La Pérouse – mod – great views – old Nice, insider’s hotel -

            Hotel le Grimaldi – cheap, ok – 1st class

            Beau Rivage – Belle – nice mod

            Radisson Blu – on prom Anglais – mod 800-333-3333 – sup 1st class

Relais de la Mediterranee – mod-exp LHW & Concorde  - now Hyatt

             Masséna Nice - rec

            Sheraton Elysees Palace – Mod – 1st class

            *Suisse – Fil Franck - sea views – mod

            Le Meridien – Mod – sup 1st class

            Concorde

            Sofitel

            Radisson - cheaper

            Hi Hotel – 4* quirky

            Boscolo Exedra – has sea views – sup 1st class

            Gold Star Resort & Suites – sup 1st class

             Villa Rivoli – mod, good reviews

            Hôtel West End – not recommended