Liz's Lines

Safari– Rangers/guides & trackers:

West Africa, Guinea, Mauritania, Mali, Togo, Benin, Lagos, Ghana, Cote d’Ivoire, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Senegal, The Gambia, Burkina Faso, Chad, Sudan, Eritrea, Djibouti, Ethiopia, Angola, Somalia, 

​

The Animals:

Tree-climbing Lions – June & July Queen Elizabeth Natl Park – Uganda
Wildebeest Migrations – June, Grumeti Reserves, Tanzania
Elephants – May & October – Chobe National Park, Botswana
Leopards – May thru Sept – Sabi Sands, S Africa
Mountain Gorillas – December thru early Feb – Volcanoes Natl Park, Rwanda

​

East Africa – Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi
All year is good – April, May could be rainy – Jan-Mar, Jul-Oct is best

Kenya– Curr – shilling – Masai & Samburu tribes – Swahili language – 2/3 desert or semi
Highlands – over 5,000 ft, lakes along Rift Valley – Turkana is largest – Masai Mara

National Reserve, private game reserves of Lailipia, vibrant Nairobi

Coast – Mombasa north, south coast not great hotels. Great Migration – wildebeest – best in Tanzania,

begins October - from Kenya – June, July have to check exact time – 2 million in migration, last a week – don’t do safari Kenya, Tanzania July – Sept. Big 5 – Lion, Elephant, Cape buffalo, Leopard, Rhino

​

Lakes – Victoria – fly in for morning, Nakuru – Nat’l forest – has flamingos, Baringo – long day but can do from Samburu - area like Switzerland – more birds Lake Baringo Club best, also Island Camp but full of snakes – Naivasha – great birder Itinerary

Nairobi – 

Fairmont the Norfolk – the in-town spot – historic
Sankara – design hotel – good rest
*Outskirts - Ngong House – elegant boutique – tree houses, cabins

Hogmead – next door – 6 rm manor – elegant patios, abut giraffe sanctuary
*Giraffe Manor - next to Nairobi National Park – 6 ensuite BRs, refurbished
 
Three trees lodges – Mountain Lodge on Mt Kenya – cheaper
On Aberdares – 
Treetops 
The Ark

Karen – just outside – 19 miles W of airport
*Hemingways – exp – spacious gym & spa – intimate club-like feel – Harper ’14 – tranquil
     Location, spacious, well-appointed – food inconsistent, pool & sundeck too small

Gigiri - Just outside –
   **The Tribe – raves for boutique hotel set amid shops and restaurants of The Village
          Market – sleek, modern – spa, rest Jiko

*Windsor Country Club – outskirts – very nice, basement night club

Great Rift Valley

Lake Naivasha – 
   Hippo Manor

Meru National Park  
Meru airstrip – hr drive to Meru National Park
   Elsa’s Kopje – 8 cottages, tri-level ste and 2 BR house – nice design – exc cuisine
     Ultimate is Elsa’s private house – 2 BRS – sleeps 4 adults

Samburu – 75 mi NW Meru - Samburu National Reserve
   *Sasaab – Harper – 9 tented stes, each more than 1000 sq ft, 4 posters, lavish baths, and plunge
      Pools – exc food - spa    
   Serena Lodge 
Elephant Watch Camp – high mod – very personal safaris – 6 low-key thatched-roof canvas tents

Lewa Downs – 100 square mile conservatory, see Mt Kenya – lots of game – rhino, cheetah,
                          Leopard, Grevy’s zebra
***Sirikoi Lodge – great location – sumptuous, 4 elegant, luxury tented rms on wooden decks,
                           With fireplace, spacious bath – nearby cottage with 2 BRs, kitchen - + 3 BR
                          Sirikoi House – self contained – Harper ‘14
**Lewa Wilderness Trails – Harper ’14 – 4 guest lodges + Kifaru, private hilltop house for
       Up to 12 people – Wilderness Trails Lodge most romantic – 16 guests in 8 traditional
        Thatched cottages – spacious, comfort, not luxe – no A/C, simple baths – setting idyllic

Laikipia Plateau escarpment - Ol Lentille Conservatory – 30 min flight directly W of Sasaab
     14,500 acres – returning wildlife from conservation efforts
The Sanctuary at Ol Lentille – Harper – 4 lavish, fully staffed houses – on a ridge summit
Segera Retreat – Edenic gardens, spa, pool, great wildlife concentration – very exp 
      Chief’s House – 3 contemp African BRs – Colonel’s House – 2 colonial BRs – Eyrie House - 
      1 modern BR - **Sultan’s House – 1 exotic BR with spell-binding décor, sunken tub – bliss
      Great food – good family spot – not usual safari spot – can ride horses, camels, bikes
Lemarti’s Camp owned by fashion designer
***Segera Retreat – open soon – 8 solar-powered villas

Nanyuki – 
** Mount Kenya Safari Club 

Chyulu Hills – 
**Campi Ya Kanzi – Masai-community owned lodge – luxe, exclusivity

 Maasai Mara – Maasai Mara National Reserve – lion country – not Nat’l Park – owned by 
                       The Maasai
**Mahali Mzuri camp deluxe – Sir Richard Branson
Angama Mara – 30 ste – on edge of escarpment – fab rms – very exp 
Mara Serena Safari Lodge    
*& Beyond Kichwa Tembo – stayed
Governor’s Camp – took balloon from here
Little Governor’s Camp – larger with 37 tents – from $340 pp per nite
*Rekero – across Mara River - $1000 night – only 17 tents
**Sanctuary Olonana – stylish on banks of Mara River – Harper ’14 – ok for 1st time safari
     But looking dated, close to other
Fairmont Mara Safari Club - 
**Cottars 1920s Safari Camp – elegance, splendor of old tile – Arch Digest - $540 pp
        4 tented family stes – perfect campsite – also Cottar’s Private – 5 BR villa @$4320
         Sleeping 6 people 
Bateleur Camp – Virtuoso rec 
Sweetwater’s Tented Camp – bumpy road – saw moneys, baboons, giraffes, cape fugglo, and  
                       Wart hogs & in-house rhino

Salas Camp – good for young families – 7 en-suite tents from $410 pp
Eagle’s View – Mara Nabosiho Conservancy - $388 pp – high lion density – great eco 

Olare Motorogi Conservancy - 
***Mara Plains Camp – best location - $570 pp – 7 tent camp – lion country – Harper ‘14
       Spellbinding view of plains – lavish tents, exc food
**Mara Toto – same ownership as Plains – 5 spacious, comfort tents - classic

Kicheche Mara - $445 pp – 2nd best Mara location – idyllic – great views – 8 spacious 
   Tents

Mara North Conservatory – 
Richard’s River Camp – owned by superguide Richard Roberts – 6 elegant tents, one for families
      $715 per person - 

Ambroseli –
Ambroseli Lodge – so-so 
Aberdare Country Club
Ol Donyo Lodge – revamped by conservationist Bonham

Tsavo National Park – 
Taita Hills Lodge

Nguruman escarpment (south) 
Shompole – stylish

Mombasa – Serena Beach Hotel

Lamu – www.lamuretreats.com – rentals – visit Sept thru March, rainy April to July
            See Lamu Museum set in a Swahili house. Take a traditional Tusitiri Dhow for day
            Or overnight trips from Old Town or Shela Village. Time-Warp simce 19th cent
            Shop at Aman for stylish clothing, My Eye Gallery for folk art, Sea Suq complex of
            Coffee shops & boutiques, Anna Trzebinski of house ware & clothing designs
            Dine: Olympic – casual café, Petley’s Inn – convivial rooftop bar, Pontoon Restaurant –
                Floating grill bar off Manda Beach reached by its own launch, Whispers Café - snacks
Shela – 
*Peponi Hotel – mod – watering hole for Europe set
            Baitil Aman – mod
            Banana House - cheap
Lamu Town – Baytil Ajaib – Am owned guesthouse – 4 dbls
             Beach House
             **Dhow House – 7 BR $21,000 per week, no meals www.journeysbydesign.com 
             Lamu House – 10 guest rooms, traditional, mod
Lamu Island – Kizingoni Beach – 7 luxury villas on a half-mile beach – www.kizingonibeach.com – 8,200 wk
Manda Island – The Majlis – 25 rm resort - exp

Island 2 hours by boat Kiwayu Safari Lodge – 18 thatch bungalows – exp www.kiwayu.com 

Rentals – Bisletti House & Jasmine House – Lamu Retreats
                Beach, Shela & Palm Houses – www.shelahouse.com 
                El Yaffir & Hilltop Fort – www.journeysbydesign.com 
Rusinga Island – off E shore of Lake Victoria – Rusinga Island Lodge – Micato safari lodge - bungalows  

NORTH

Laikipia - 
**Lewa Safari Camp – deluxe camp at foot of Mt Kenya – great reviews
Lisa Lindblad Travel Design – 7 hrs Nairobi – N Kenya **Lemarti’s Camp - luxe
                            lisa@lisalindblad.com 

TANZANIA – Serengeti & migrations, Mt Kilimanjaro – highest peak, Ngorongoro Crater
                         Zanzibar Island – migration July - Sept
Arusha – airport
 
Ngorongoro Crater (gor on goro) – see animals in crater
**Ngorongoro Crater Lodge www.ccafrica.com – Harper ‘14
     Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge
 
Serengeti National Park – near Kenya border
**Singita Grumeti – 5 semi-mobile tented camps, a private villa, riding safaris
**And Beyond Grumeti Serengeti Tented Camp – exp – 10 tens
**Singita Mara River Lodge
Singita Serengeti House – near lodge – up to 8 can rent – private villa $6800 – 4 guests
**Singita Mara River Tented Camp – great location - $1000 pp per nite – each
       Tent has open-air tub overlooking Mara River with crocs, hippos, elephants – Harper ‘14
       6 tents – intimate, comfortable – not lavish style of Grumeti properties
**Four Seasons Safari Lodge, Serengeti – Start $890, ste $1420 – rec 1st flr terrace stes
         77 rms, incl 12 stes & 5 villas – all with direct Serengeti views – Harper ‘14
         More of a resort than on safari – closed vehicles – crowded area
*Singita Grumeti River Camp – starting mobile safaris
**Singita Sabora Tented Camp – 1920-style – no children under 10 – Harper ’14 – on open plains     Nice counter-point to Sasakwa
Mwiba Lodge – exp – tops for food, design, service
Singita Explore – semi-mobile – max of 6 tents move between 5 sites - $975 pp
Lamai Serengeti – exp - 
Bilila Lodge – 77 rms, many thatch-roofed – Kempinski - exp
*Sanctuary Kusini – Harper ’14 – upscale, 12 tented stes - 
                                           Klein’s Camp 888-882-3742
                                            Kusini’s - 9 permanent tents - A&K
                                           Serengeti Sopa Lodge

***Singita Grumeti Sasakwa Hill Lodge - ultra-luxe - $3000 nite for 2 – Edwardian-style 
        Manse – ten 1, 2, 3 & 4 BR cottages – Harper ’14 – spa, equestrian center – Serengeti 
        House for up to 8 people – 2 double BRS, + 2 one BR – in private reserve - Migration
**Singita Faru Faru Lodge – Grumeti Reserves 2 BR family ste - $925 pp – great for kids – Harper ’14 – 9 stes, in wooded ravine

Serengeti Under Canvas – from $750 pp per nite – 9 tents are moved to follow migration
Chem Chem – stylish oasis – high mod, between Tarangire Nat’l Park & Lake Manyara
      Run by conservationist in important wildlife corridor
Olare Motorogi Conservancy - 
Kicheche Mara - $445 pp – 2nd best Mara 

 

Greystoke Mahale www.greystoke-mahale.com – 6 thatched-roof huts on Lake Tanganyika  
Lamai Serengeti – 12 rms blend into rocky hills
Ndutu Lodge – great for watching the migration Jan-Mar - inexp

Ruaha National Park –  Jongomero 888-882-3742 www.ccafrica.com – per Mages – warm, comfortable, not over the top –   Game more elusive but chic little spot
**Asilia Jabali Ridge – 8-suite lodge, exp

Rufiji River – south – Selous Game Reserve
Selous Safari Camp CC Africa
Amara Selous – 12 stes with private plunge pools

Lake Manyara National Park – near Kilimanjaro –
Numanga – 
Lake Manyara Tree Lodge – 10 elevated stes – lions drape in trees

Indian Ocean – 
Ras Kutani – CC Africa

Mt Kilimanjaro – takes 5 days to climb – 3 up, 2 down. Start at 6000 ft Marangu – 1 nite
   Series of 3 huts – Mandara at 9000 ft, 10-12 miles to 12,000 ft Haramba Hut, 3rd stop
   Kibo Hut at 15,500 ft – need warm clothes – have guide, 2 porters

ZANZIBAR – best Dec-Feb, June-Oct – main rains mid-March-end of May – off Tanzania
                        East coast – 22 mi – women wear traditional Khuanga colorful cotton
                        Wraps – Swim with dolphins at Kizimkasi, see endangered Red Colobus
                        Monkeys at Jozani Forest Reserve, hand-feed giant tortoises in the protected
                        Wildlife Reserve on Prison Island.  Spice tour from Kidichi Spice & Fruit
                        Farm – Persian Baths across the road – 45 min N of Dar es Salaam
   **& Beyond Mnemba Island Lodge – NE tip – most romantic ’11 Harper
  ** The Residence Zanzibar – exp – 66 teak-accented villas, 27 are Oceanside – spa – no
         Mosquitoes or malaria, 90 min to NBO – LHW – complimentary water sports
Stone Town – Visit Old dispensary with decorative balconies, House of Wonders, Palace 
                         Museum, 17th cent Arab Fort, Anglican Cathedral on site of former slave
                         Market – Shop on Chavada Street, daily bazaar on Gizenga St, Zanzibar
                         Gallery on Kenyatta St for colorful textiles, spiced oils & soaps
                         Dine at Dhow Restaurant, spice-trading ship moored in front of old Sultan’s
                         Palace for local specialties – or at adjacent Forodhani Gardens – more casual 
Emerson & Green – best in town - 10 rms, each indiv dec in colorful batiks - *Tower Top
            Rest – rms harem-like       
Mashariki Palace Hotel – mod – 18 rms in 19th cent manse – canopy beds
                  Dhow Palace Hotel - cheap   
                  Fumba Beach Lodge – mod
Zanzibar Serena Inn – mod www.serenahotels.com – mod – enjoy cocktail hour on patio
***Matemwe Bungalows – Retreat Villas best – from $1040 – luxe – exc rest
                  Palms Zanzibar – 616 per nite pp - www.palms-zanzibar.com 
**Breezes Beach Club & Spa (Palms owner, across the street) – huge ocean-side pool

Bububi – 20 minutes outside town – enroute visit Mbweni, Mtoni & Maruhubi – old Sultan
               Palaces
Salomé’s Garden – on sugar plantation – 4 lge BRS

Pemba – island 50 mi off NE shore – clove capital – on beautiful Wambaa Peninsula
**Fundu Lagoon – 19 deluxe thatched tent-like rooms on stilts – high-mod

Chumbe Island – Coral Park – 45 min by boat from Stone Town – bests secluded beaches on NE
                           Coast – Nungwi & Matemwe - 
Chumbe Island Coral Park – spectacular eco-lodge, 7 eco-bandas – mini-thatched versions
       Of Sydney Opera House – gorgeous reef with 200 species of coral and fish  
Matemwe -  
Matemwe Bungalows – top of jagged coral cliff, 16 white washed bungalows with verandas, 
         Surrounded by tropical gardens – mod

Mnemba Island – 2 miles off coast of Matemwe – Bill Gates, Naomi Campbell – 
Mnemba Island Lodge – exp – 10 bandas Face Ocean – like a desert island – dine on beach 
       $1550 pp nite
                                          
UGANDA – Entebbe – visa at airport or before www.visituganda.com-www.ugandawildlife.org 
Royal Tour – A&K gorilla tracking, www.volcanoessafaris.com – www.thefarhorizons.com
Two hours between Rwanda Volcanoes Nat’l Park and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – 
  Lower altitude, maximum 8,500 ft – 5 groups – harder to see with thick vegetation – long drive, 
  Preferable to charter a private plane – Jan & Feb & Jul & Aug best months – rain Mar-May,  
Lighter rains - Oct-mid Dec.  Uganda visa at entry

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park – Passage to Africa for Bwindi & Volcanoes, Explore Inc to
     Bwindi – In both hire your own porter at $20 a day at gate - $15 tip
    *Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge – Harper
    *Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp 

Bwindi – from Kampala – 2-day overland – Community Campground & luxury camps

Queen Elizabeth National Park –Ishasha -  most visited 
Mweya Safari Lodge
**Kyambura Gorge Lodge – 8 modern cabins – mod, June, July tree climbing lions

Muexhison Falls National Park – 
Chobe Safari Lodge – luxe tented suites

Kampala – Emin Pasha Hotel - exp

RWANDA - primate safaris – see 7-37 gorilla family members – higher altitude than Uganda 
                      So cooler – see climate in Uganda for rainfall, see Dec-early Feb

Kigali – capital - 75 min flight from Nairobi - 
   Intercontinental Kigali

Gisenyi – on shore of Lake Kivu – start trek – 6 people at a time, 12 per day – trip takes 11 hrs 
                6 hrs drive, 5 hrs gorilla tracking & visiting – rest at 10,000 ft.  Need to include
                Kagena Nat’l Park (Gov’t rule) – so need a week in Rwanda
Méridien Hotel – starting point for trek

Volcanoes National Park – about 2 hrs from Kigali – village at bottom of hill – Virunga Mts - 
       Best place to track – mountain gorillas rebounding
  **Sabyinyo – Silverback Lodge – Harper ‘13-see gorillas www.govenorscamp.com 
       Comfortable rather than luxe, 5 cottages, 3 stes – food fine – visit gorilla groups –
        Closest 20 min drive, 15 min- hr hike – longest 3-5 hr hike – up to 10,500 ft – food
        Goes from great to good to ok - 
**Bisate Lodge – 6 striking villas – very exp

Ste Anne Resort – exp www.sainteanne-resort.com 
Anonyme Island - Anonyme Island Resort - 4 guesthouses, Creole rest. www.anonyme.sc 

ZAIRE – gorillas
Rutshuru – fly from Nairobi – charter – 4 hr drive, ½ hr walk to camp – stay 3-4 nites, do 2 
                 Treks 1 ½ hrs each way – about 1500 ft, access to gorillas easier than Rwanda –
                  Never walk over a mile – 3 hrs from Goma 

BURUNDI

NORTH AFRICA – Egypt, Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria

EGYPT – Airport to town center – 14 miles, 25 minutes
             Deluxe Nile cruise – **Oberoi Zahara – 7 nite Aswan-Luxor $11X – 800-562-3764
                 Nubia Tours – Harper – in Cairo - Curr - pound
Cairo – 
Four Seasons at First Residence
**Four Seasons at Nile Plaza – waterfront, excellent restaurants
             Kempinski – on the river
             Mena House Oberoi
              Meridien Hotel – airport
             Ramses Hilton
             Nile Hilton
             Windsor Palace Hotel - 
Luxor – 
Hotel Al Moudira
*Sofitel Winter Palace
Aswan – 
*Sofitel Legend Old Cataract – mod – peaceful – Palace area preferred, renovated

Siwa – 
Adrere Amellal – 8 hr drive from Cairo in W desert info@equ.com.eg  

Alexandria – 
Four Seasons Hotel at San Stefano – most luxe – 15 min taxi to town center
                     Sofitel Cecil – mod – many sea views
                     Windsor Palace Hotel – cheap – old faded glamour 
Sinai
Sharm El Sheikh – 
Ritz-Carlton Sharm El Sheikh
Mount Sinai – St Catherine’s Tourist Village – Foot of Mt Sina

MOROCCO – Heritage Tours 800-378-4555, Morocco Tourist Board, Culinary Adventures
         Carol Prior (per Carol Wilhelm) FITS www.moroccobypriorarrangement.net
CURR – dirham – Best travel times Spring & Fall – cool Xmas & New Year but popular,
                July/Aug - hot
Imperial Cities – Fez, Rabat, Meknes, Marrakesh, 
Tangier –
*Hotel Minzah – old favorite base – Mooresque - 
                Hotel Nord-Pinus Tangier
Le Mirage – whitewashed villas – great summer choice, nice garden overlooking sad beach
                Dar Sultan www.chicretreats.com – inexp 

Casablanca – 
Hyatt Regency
Sofitel

Fez – 3 ½ hrs Casablanca, 2 ½ hrs Rabat – Medina/souks – 300 mi n Marrakech
*Sofitel Palais Jamai 
*La Maison Bleue/Riad Maison Bleue - annex www.maisonblllllleue.com 
Riad Arabesque – rococo haven96 
*Dar El Ghalia – built as palace – 10 rms, 5 magnificent stes
Hotel Sahrai – overlooks old medina – chic refuge from bustling center – 50 rms – 
   Pool & bar views of historic cityscape & Atlas Mountains - mod
          Dar Tajine – adjacent riad 
          Riad Numero 9 – 3 br house
          Riad Fes – moderate hotel 
          Riad Laaroussa – 7 suites – cheap
          Dar Roumana – cheaper – old manse, cooking lessons

Rabat – 60 min Casablanca
Hyatt Regency
            Tour Hassan 

Meknes – 45 min Rabat
Transatlantique 

Moulay Idriss – 1 ½ hr drive from Fez, 3 ½ hrs Casablanca – north
    Visit Roman Baths, Volubilis, former capital of remote area – partially excavated city
Dar Zerhoune – 5-5m B&B, traditional home – cheap
Scorpion House – great guesthouse – meals by chef – mod
Watila Farm – historic countryside home – exc dining – very cheap

Marrakech – (riad – elegant medina house) – Rentals -Villas of Morocco, Cédric Reversade
**Four Seasons – great service, kids pools, esc boutique
**Mandarin Oriental Marrakech – Palmeraie District beyond old city walls - exp
** Royal Mansour – Medina – riads from $2,050 www.royalmansour.com – LHW – King
           Mohammed VI’s 
**La Mamounia – rest Le Marocain – beautifully art deco renovated – best rms overlook
            Pool, gardens
**Amanjena – 20 min outside on road to Ouarzazate – true sanctuary – 7 villas, 34 domed
            Pavilions, high-tech hammam, **rest            
**La Maison Arabe – exotic mansion in heart of Medina www.lamaisonarabe.com – feels like
     A pasha’s villa
*Villa des Orangers www.villadesorangers.com – small, luxe property – 27 rms
**Selman Marrakesh – grand Moorish style – minutes by car from Medina – stable of 16
        Arabian thoroughbreds – moderate – near golf courses
*La Sultana - 5 riads into a 28-rm hotel in casbah – great hamman & spa for massage
Maison Bleue
**Es Saadi Gardens & Resort – 10 villas - wonderful
**Naoura Barrière – 86 stes, 30 riad private homes with pool – mod
            Sister to Barrière Cannes 
**Riad Mena – easy elegance – get Grand Room with terrace & palatial bath – feels
      Like home – 6 sparse rms, unaffected
Angsana Riads Collection – group of 7 Moorish homes www.angsana.com - inexp 
Riad Joya – near Main Square – 7 rm house – warm staff – inexp – 7 stes, rooftop rest
**Dar Rhizlane www.dar-rhizlane.com 
Riad Kniza – antique’s dealer home – charming, mod
*Dar Moha Al Madina - beauty
* Riad Enija – former palace – 8 stes, baths are mini-spas – mod
* Riad Merimem – 5 ste, rare textiles, fab baths - **private chef
*Riad Mabrouka 
*Riad Farnatchi www.riadfarnatchi.com – exp
** Riad el Fenn – coolest www.riadelfenn.com – attracts fashion designers
Riad-Marrakech – lovely, traditional, guest chefs at restaurant on occasion 
Riad Siwan - mod
Riad El Cadi – in Medina – 12 rms - inexp
Riad Kaiss – 8 rms – some private terraces - inexp
Riad Noga – cheery salmon-pink, 2 exc *rest – inexp – rms smallish – 3 roof terraces,
    Large swimming pool
*Riad Noir d’Ivoire – near Medina – mod – 4 stes, 2 dble rms, 24 hr hammam, indoor pool
Riad Tarabel – master ste, 2 dlbs, 3 salons - , hammam – antique French décor, near Palais Dar
      El Bacha 
Hotel Tichka – small, sort of charming, small rms, cheap 
                     Sublime Ailleurs – outside town
                     Riad Fes – cheap
                     Dar al Assad – B&B 
            Bab Hotel – cheap www.babhotelmarrakech.com 

Shadow of Atlas Mts – 
** Mandarin Oriental Hotel Jnan Rahma – looks fabulous, views – newer, exp

La Palmeraie – posh suburb – 10 min out – rent a villa here from Morocco Made to Measure
**Ksar Char-Bagh – 12 luxe suites, hammam - very exp, French-trained staff, au courant – best
**Palais Namaskar – 12-acre paradise of gilded domes & scalloped arches – stes, villas, 
   Mansions – shimmering lakes – Moghul-inspired resort – very exp – huge suites
**Taj Palace – exp – Mammouth scale, largest African pool, Taj hotels
Les Deux Tours – glorious compound
*Murano Oriental Resort – 37 rms & suites in 5 riads – great pool, **rest
*Dar Tamsna – 2 villas
*Douar Abíad – riad near Tamsna – 10 spacious bedrooms, fireplaces, antiques
Dar Zemora
  Dar Liqama & Dar Louisa 
Orchard of the Shooting Star

Ouled Ben Rahman – 5 mi N of city –
Caravan Serai – 17 rustic-chic

Tagadert – 15 mi south
Tigmi – connecting mud-walled Berber houses – wonderful, pool, many terraces, view of
            Atlas Mountains – eco-resort, unspoiled Berber community  
 
Atlas Mountains foothills – 20 min Marrakech – Moroccan Adventure – 877-577-8777 
                                             www.chicretreats.com or www.sanctuare.com

Rte de Guemassa - 10 mi beyond airport
** Kasbah Agafay – 15 luxe, traditional apts in historic fortress – mini-resort

Rte to Ouarzazate – 25 min from Medina
Atlas House – villa on 5-acre olive grove, Atlas Mt views – 2 master stes, 2 guest rms, hammam
   Heated pool

Skoura – E of Marrakech, N of Ouarzazate 
Dar Ahlam – 14 stes- luxe, top notch service, rich menu of activities – can do a night at
   Desert encampment Dar Ahlam Nomad - terrific

Asni (rte 203) – 40 min Marrakech - SE
**Kasbah Tamadot – Rich Bramson - 18 rms & Stes – 6 Berber tent-styles, luxe – 320-1525 

Erg el M’Hazil – due E of Asni
***Camp Dar Ahlam – very exp – spend one night in conjunction with stay at Scource – 20
        Mi NW – camp is special, elegant guesthouses

Agafay Desert – W of Touskal Nat’l Park – hr S from Marrakesh
Scarabeo Stone Camp – good activities, not great service but will probably improve - mod
                            
High Atlas 2 hrs Marrakech – 
**Kasbah du Toubka
**Capaldi Atlas Mountains – www.thecapaldi.com i
 

Imlil – visit Kasbah Toubkal, at the foot of Jbel Toubkal, highest peak in N Africa – take
          Donkeys to visit local villages

Erfoud – spectacular route
Salaam 

Taroudant – 5 hrs over high Atlas mts from Marrakech 
La Gazelle d’Or – ultimate oasis – ’12 Harper – complaints – dated, A/C not work, mosquitoes

Essaouira – 110 miles Won coast, 3 hrs from Marrakech – tours www.essaouira-randonnees.com 
**Dar Mimosas – collection of elegant villas – 5 mi S from town, gardens - deluxe
Sofitel Thalassa Mogador – deluxe – big, modern, attractive across from beach – large pool
Heure Bleue Palais – luxe – 35 rm, within old customs house in Old Town
Dar Beida – British ex-pat – chic guesthouse - $1,356 wk
Dar Emma – same owner – smaller roperty – from 1,356 wk
**Villa Maroc – original riad – raves – 20 rms, stes in 4 restored medina mansions - cheap
Dar Loulema – charming riad – 4 dbles, 3 Jr stes – on edge of seawall - cheap                   
Riad Gyvo – cheap – restored as museum with contemp art and Berber artifacts 
Dar Loulema – cheap
Les Matin Bleus – Moroccan owned – cheap www.les-matins-bleus.com 

Tiznit – just S – 
Hotel Tiznit 

Ouirgane – just S of Marrakesh 
Residence La Roseraie
Domaine Malika – basic camp - cheap
 

Ouarzazate – 4 hr drive Marrakesh
Hotel Azghor
                      **Riad Salam
                      Tichka Salam cheap by Riad Salam 
                      Hotel Le Zat
                      Villa Morroc 
                      Karam Pasha – all cheap

Skoura – 4 hrs Marrakech, 22 mi Ouarzazate – 
*Dar Ahlam – exp – 8 conjoined suites, 3 villas
                                       Former Casbah of Palmerai di Skoura
                                     - 24 mi east Ouarzazate – Kasbah Ben Moro  
Zagora –
Hotel Tinsouline

 Erg Chigaga – SE corner near Algeria – below Zagora – hr from M’Hamid 
***Erg Chigaga Luxury Camp – arrive by 4X4 – very exp – friendly, informal – 8 traditional
        Caidal tents in Erg Chigaga dunes  

Taliouine –
Hotel Ibn Toumert – only choice – 4*, abuts beautiful Glaoui Casbah

Agadir – on sea
PLM Les Dunes d’Or
                Almohndes
                Sud Bahia 

El Jadida – coast NW Marrakesh
L’Iglesia – atmospheric, not luxe – mod

Ooualidia – S El Jadida on coastal
La Sultana Gualidia – mod – ok
Villa La Diouana – cheap next door

TUNISIA – Tunis USA – 800-474-5500/Amelia Tours – 800-742-4591 – Roman, Arabic, Berber Medieval towns, Saharan dunes and oases

Tunis – hr flt from Rome – north
* Dar el Medina – residence of charm
Dar Said – in suburb of Tunis

Gammarth – coastal suburb 9 miles from Tunis
The Residence (Cotes de Carthage – Le Marsa) www.theresidence.com – best - modern 

Sidi Bou Saïd – - cobble-stoned village – summer retreat – haunt of artists & writers
Dar Saïd – 10 mi from city center - residence of charm – 24 stes, 4 jasmine-filled courtyards,
       Hammam, small pool – rare place to feel like a local - www.darsaid.com.tn

Carthage –
**Villa Didon – views of Atlas mts, ruins of Carthage www.villadidon.com – just NE of town,
       
Le Marsa – 
Hotel Plaza Corniche

South – 
Ksar Ghilane – 
Pansea Ksar Ghilane

NE – sunny shores, medieval souks

Monastir –
Sahara Beach Hotel – not deluxe but great reviews 

Kairouan – holiest city – 2 hr train from Tunis
Hammamed – 90 min drive s of Tunis – Med resort
Sousse – 9th century Great Mosque – Kasbah, ancient Phoenician town
Djerba Island – off S coast – Roman recreation center
Gabes (Qabis) fringe of desert
Houmt Souk – Hotel Dar Fairat

ALGERIA

SOUTH AFRICA – Republic of S.A., Botswana, Mozambique, Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Madagascar
May-Sept best months

REPUBLIC OF SOUTH AFRICA - Oct thru April - Blue Train www.bluetrain.co.za  & Rovos Rail - www.rovos.co.za  Curr - rand – Krueger Nat’l Park, Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve
          Cape Winelands, Capetown, Johannesburg  
                                 Big 5 – Lion, elephant, Cape buffalo, Leopard, Black Rhino
Safari – Rangers/trackers 
**Lion Encounter tours – walk with cubs – offices Livingstone, Zambia, Vic Falls, Zimb.
60-75 min walks www.visitvicfalls@lionencounter.com e-mail visitlivingsdstone@lionencounter.com
Big 5 – Lion, Elephant, Cape buffalo, Leopard, Rhino 

GOLF – Links at Fancourt – 4 hr drive from Cape Town – premier luxe resort
               Durban Country Club – east coast
               Leopard Creek – 4 hrs Jo’burg near Kruger National Park – club private
                 But golf can be arranged through Jock Safari Lodge and Buhala Lodge – very exp
              Humewood – like Carnustie – Eastern Cape’s Port Elizabeth 
                                                                                                                    
Kruger National Park –
  **Royal Malewane – Thornybush Game Reserve – on W. fringe – 6 – Harper ’11 – UP -   
         Regal Secluded suites luxe, amazing, remarkable - *rest – spa – PERFECT - BEST
          35 min drive from Hoedspruit town- hr flt from Jo’burg – Africa House – 6BR villa 
Pafuri Camp – N near Zimbabwe
The Outpost

Hoedspruit – near Kruger
***Camp Jabulani – family-run safari lodge on private reserve – 6 ste

Sabi Sands Reserve – 
Singita Lebombo (3rd opened) & *Sweni Lodge – E by Mozambique
*Singita Ebony (1st) – 1/16 = 12 new tent-like stes, redesigned
*Singita Boulders (2nd)
*Londolozi Private Game Reserve – good alt – Harper - $925 pp per nite – great trackers
     Large bedrooms, large baths
**Londolozi Tree Camp – modern, family owned lodge - leopards
***Singita private Game Reserve – Sabi Sand
                                       ** Singita Kruger National Park - Harper
**Mala Mala – wonderful
                                    Lion Sands – Ivory Lodge – Sabi Sands - deluxe
                                5*Earth Lodge - Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve – Sabi Sand - unique
& Beyond - deluxe
  *Ulusaba – Branson’s plush – Sabi Sands – Harper – rustic – 10 comfy bungalows on stilts
                                    Phinda Private Game Reserve – KwaZulu-Natal – n of Durban – 4 lodges
                                    Homestead at Phinda Private Game Reserve – new wilderness villa
                                           Getty House – 888-882-3742 www.ccafrica.com 
                                     Close to Indian Ocean coast  
Madikwe Game Reserve – borders Botswana - Gaborone
**Mateya Safari Lodge – exp – very luxe, relax after safaris – Harper ’113 – in rocky outcrop – 
       5 huge A/C sts, opulent – lavish public areas, small spa – exc game viewing, *dining

Waterburg Mts – Shambala Private Game Reserve – 3 hr drive, 45 min helicopter Jo’burg
Shambala Game Reserve – Saxon Hotel owner - 2965 wildlife Sanctuary
*Zulu Camp – Harper ’12 – 8 thatched cottages over Sterkstroom River – A/C – large, 
      Spacious baths - *exc cuisine – small spa – ride elephant, rhinos 

Johannesburg – **Nelson Mandela’s retreat at Shambla Private Game Reserve outside of
    Town now available for stays through Nelson Mandela Centre for Reconciliation - $6000
     Per nite for up to 12 people – See Arts on Main – Sunday market, art studios, August House – artists’ works, Constitution Hill – former prison complex houses artworks, Cosmopolitan – art works, DINE – Mad Giant – s[raw;omg brewery, 
**Westcliff Hotel
Park Hyatt
The Michelangelo
**The Saxon Boutique – Harper – elegant 24 suite suburban retreat 800-223-6800
         45 min airport in Sandton – blissful – very exp
Monarch Hotel – newer, great rest & car
33 Melville Road – 3 roomy stes and fab garden – in Hyde Park – rambling villa
Grace in Rosebank 
        Tintswalo at Waterfall – outskirt of Jo’burg 
         * Airport Sun Intercontinental – Harper
         *Southern Sun – 2nd best airport
          Ten Bompas Hotel – suburban boutique www.tenbombas.com 
           Melrose Arch Hotel – 1st design hotel 
Hallmark Hotel - cheap

Sandton – nearby suburb of Jo’burg 
*Fairlawns – Harper ’13 – neo-classical villa – 39 indiv decorated rms, 3 BR Pres residence
    Rms large, traditional European, rms large, lovely bath, good staff, spa, good rest

Sun City – 35 min flt Jo’burg – Palace Hotel – restful resort

Stellenbosch – top WINE region – near Capetown – hr east – can helicopter over
TOP VINEYARDS: Franschhoek – Boekenhoutskloof, Boschendal, Chamonix, LaMotte
                                 Stellenbosch – Stark-Condé 
Franschhoek – 
**La Residence – reopen with 11 posh suites, art trove – Cape Wine lands - **rest, **wines
Grande Provence Estate – Harper – owner’s cottage special 
**Owner’s Cottage – Harper – exp – 5 doubles, cozy, lovely, wine-tasting,                               *Le Quartier Francais – right place www.lequartier.co.za - Harper
                         La Cabriere Country House – B&B
                         La Couronne – B&B – formal, great views www.lacouronnehotel.co.za 
                         Roggeland Country House – welcoming, cheap www.roggeland.co.za  
                         Hawksmoor House – cheap, shabby-chic kitchen

Between Stellenbosch & Paarl –
**Babylonstoren – opened ’11 – Harper ’13 – 14 Cape Dutch 1 BR cottages – super bath
      Fab gardens – HARPER AWARD ’13 – resort & farm in Franschoek 

Nederburg/Paarl –
** Grande Roche – finest country house hotel in wine region – Harper
Between Paarl & Franschhoek –** Babylonstoren Farm Hotel – Dutch wine land estate hotel 
                         Manor house w/ 5 BRs, 12 rural cottages, exc Babel rest. - $575 up
Paarl –
Roggeland Country House – 18th cent farmstead – foot of Klein Drakenstein Mountain

Royal Hotel – Riebeek Kasteel 

Helshoogte Pass – hour from Capetown
***Delaire Graff Lodge & Spa – 105 acre wine estate – super deluxe, exp – 10 villa estate
         Rest with feel of European grande café – very exp www.delaire.co.za 

Plettenberg Bay – 
**The Plettenberg – 5 hr Garden Route drive from Cape Town – upscale beach
Birkenhead House
**Kurland – Harper ’13 – 20 min east of Plettenberg Bay – 12 stes, lavish baths, rose gardens 
       *Notable rest –

Port Alfred – from Kurland via Garden Route National Park
**Oceana Beach & Wildlife Reserve – 7 mi E of town – Harper ’13 – 3 lodge stes,
       4 separate Ocean stes, + 3 BR Ocean House for families – lovely, fab service
        **Exc rest – beautiful setting – birds, white rhino, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, antelope
        For cats & other game go 2 hrs to Kwandwe Private Game Reserve or Gotah Elephant Camp 

Swartland – N of Cape Town – wine region
Bartholomeus Klip Farmhouse 

Capetown –
**Cape Grace www.capegrace.com – 121 rm hotel in yacht basin – Harper – exc - **rest
            120 rms, stes & lofts - Jewel box spa open only to guests
**One & Only – waterfront – lavish spa, 2 gourmet rests – Harper – exp – amazing public
     Areas, fab service – Island rooms far larger, Marina Mountain popular for views
Table Bay Hotel
*Belmond Mount Nelson – great spa – being updated – afternoon tea – still wonderful
Ellerman House– rec by Meg’s friend – high mod
Silo Hotel – new – top 7 floors of Zeitz MOCAA’s silo – bright, lofty rms, modern - exp
Villa Zest Boutique Hotel – ‘70s feel – in Green Point – mod
Taj Cape Town – central by Parliament & St George’s – elegant old rms, new tower wing - mod
                     De Waterkant Village                     
                     Dock House – Harper – small, intimate boutique hideaway on waterfront
                     Victoria & Albert
Kensington Place – Table Mt foothills - 8 rm townhouse – ultra contemp – insider fav
                     15 On Orange Hotel – mod – modern, light-filled
                     Hotel Constantia Uitsig – unique, mod. - has cricket, 2 exc rest 
                     Place on the Bay – apts – exp Penthouse www.theplaceonthebay.co.za 
Pinnacle – spectacular, single ste - mod
                     Hippo Boutique Hotel – inexp
                     Cape Cadogan - inexp
                     Omni Ambassador East – inexp
                     Metropole – inexp
                      Daddy long legs Art Hotel – cheap
                     Grand Daddy Hotel – cheap

Oranjezicht – near Mt Nelson
Hemingway House – mod – old world serenity

Guesthouses
Lakeside – Colona Castle – Italianate terrace with views of False Bay

Higgovale – 
Montague House – stes, Afro-Elizabethan fantasy

West suburbs – 
Twelve Apostles Hotel – exp www.redcarnationhotels.com - sensational
** Ellerman House – Harper ‘13 – exc – 11 rms in former mansion – large, stunning pool, **rest
       Deluxe house rms have private verandas overlooking ocean – new villa 5 BR, 3 stories
       With own pool & private chef – spa – very exp

East of City Bowl – 
Constantia – 20 min city center – start of wine roads
Constantia Uitsig – unique 15 ste hotel – series of former estate cottages, by vineyard, popular
    All stes have private verandas – **La Combe rest - badly in need of maintenance Harper ‘13 
     
Steenberg Hotel – mod – on wine estate – 24 rms, stes

False Bay – Fishhoek, Muizenberg, Kalk Bay villages – south
**Villa St James, boutique hotel

Clifton – along False Bay
Cape View Clifton - mod

Camps Bay – Twelve Apostles
**The Penthouse – exp – beach, waterfront – in Place on the Bay – small block of apts
Rest – Roundhouse – overlooking Camps Bay – former hunting lodge – 3 culinary entrepreneurs
Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa – high mod

Day safari from Capetown – Eastern Cape Province
*Kwandwe Game Reserve – Harper ’13 – best wildlife experience

Near Capetown – 
Bartholomeus Klip – mod www.parksgroup.co.za
 
Sabona Wildlife Reserve – 3 hrs Capetown – white lions, big 5
**Sanbona Wildlife Reserve – exp – luxe lodge and tents

Knysna – 40 min flt from Capetown – Pezula Resort Hotel & Spa – great spa, beautiful spot
                  www.pezularesorthotel.com 

N Capetown, west coast – 
Kersefontein Guest Farm – lovely www.kersefontein.co.za 

Samara – 
Karu Shamvari – no animals

3 hours North Capetown
**Bushman’s Kloof Wilderness Reserve – info@bushmanskloof.co.za – Relais – Harper 
        16 rm lodge - luxe -                                                     

2 hours south of Capetown – 
Grootbos – on hillside 23 miles SW Hermanus – garden bliss
**Grootbos Private Nature Reserve – 27 rms, - marine expeditions for whales, dolphins, 
     Penguins – Harper ’13 – like a lot, beautiful setting, and great staff – 2 lodges, 6 BR villa
     16 stes like cottages - **Exc dining – 4WD 3 hr safari tour fascinating viewing landscapes
      HARPER AWARD ‘13

Hermanus – 73 miles south – on Indian Ocean – whale watching in winter
**Birkenhead House – Harper ’13 – 11 studio stes, all ocean views – attractive, not large
      Rms – large bath – attractive - *rest – beach chic, std rms small, lux & sup – exp

Port Alfred – 100 miles E of Port Elizabeth on Indian Ocean
Oceana Beach & Wildlife Reserve – Ocean ste – pleasant surprise, exc dining – great spa – 
    Lots of wildlife – HARPER AWARD ‘13

Durban – 
Zimbali Lodge & Country Club - stunning                          
                 
Welgevonden Private Game Reserve – north –
Makweti Safari Lodge www.makweti.com - wild

Eastern Cape – Addo Elephant National Park – Gorah – one of best
                         Outside Park – Kwandwe – reclaimed farmland – also newer Ecca Lodge         
                                                 www.ccafrica.com 
North Cape
*Tswalu Kalahari Reserve – wildlife slightly less abundant – Harper – awesome serenity,
    Desert setting, magnificent central lodge – like tribal village, 9 stylish cottages
Motse lodge & Tarkuni – exp – Harper

Zululand – 
Fugitives’ Drift Lodge

BOTSWANA – visit July-thru early Oct– high water level for Delta – Nov-Feb rainfall/good birding – Bushmen, one side of Vic Falls – size of Kenya, Texas – camps small & scattered
Less game here, more activities- boating, walking, fishing, dugout canoes – Delta on a flood
Plain, over Kalahari Desert – Okavango Delta, Chobe Nat’l Park, Kalahari Desert
Zambezi Queen - $400 pp per nite – 2-3 nite itineraries – Depart from outside Kasane 
            www.zambeziqueen.com - Many camps don’t take children under 11
                               
And Beyond -888-882-3742 luxe Xudum Delta Lodge, Xaranna Tented Camp www.andbeyond.com 
Uncharted Africa Safari Co. own Jack’s and San camps www.unchartedafrica.co.za 
Orient-Express Safaris – Khwai River Lodge, Eagle Island Camp, Savute Elephant Camp – luxe
Wilderness Safaris – 2 venerated Mombo Camp & Abu Camp www.wilderness-safaris.com 
Fly into Kasane – or Maun – 1 hr 45 min Jo’burg

Moremi Game Reserve
*Sanctuary Chief’s Camp – Harper
**Mombo Camp – Harper – 2001, ‘12- accolades – best of all for game viewing – incredible
    Phenomenal guides, fab views, fantastic rooms
*Xigera – Wilderness Safaris – best bird viewing

**Zarafa – fab camps - Harper

 Okavango Delta – 
*Abu Camp Elephant Villa – elephant safaris – Harper ’13 – deluxe, stes part tent, part cabin –
      6 accomod – each indiv, huge bath - Walk with or ride elephants
Khawi River Lodge – great guides www.gametrackers.orient-express.com 
**Kwara Camp – Kwando Safaris
**Sandibe Okavango Safari Loge – 12 free-standing suites overlooking Moremi Game
      Drive - $940 pp per nite – main bldg a stunner – Rep And Beyond 
Duba Plains Camp – very exp, private plunge pools, plush - hippos
Chief’s Camp – 3 nites 
Little Mombo www.wilderness-safaris.com – e nites
*Jao Camp – 3 nites
Nxabega (neh-sha-bay-ga) – high style www.ccafrica.com 888-882-3742
Stanley’s Camp – www.sanctuarylodges.com, A&K - + 2 more nites
*Xigera – Wilderness Safaris – best bird viewing
                             Sandibe www.ccafrica.com – 888-882-3742
                              Xudum Delta Lodge – exp www.andbeyond.com – very exp
**Xaranna Okavango Delta Camp – arrive by dugout canoe – smart décor – from $650 pp
Shinde Camp – 

Liyanti Wetlands – river
**Kingspool - $1510 pp – 9 enormous stes with plunge pools – very high-style
Lebala Camp – Kwando Safaris

Chobe national Park – Savute Elephant Camp www.gametrackers.orient-express.com 
**Sanctuary Chobe Chilwero – A&K on Chobe River – 2 nites – 15 river-facing cottages on
       Edge of national park – elephants May & Oct
Chobe Game Lodge – where I stayed and loved it – N African style

Lagoon & Lebala Camps – big recs www.kwando.co.za 

Selinda Reserve – on Zibadianja Lagoon – 60 min light aircraft from Maun – north
     Equidistant Okavango Delta, Linyanti Swamp & Savuti Marsh – 3 wildlife areas
**Zarafa Camp – 45 min bumpy drive from airstrip – Harper ’12 – 4 magnificent 1000 sq ft tents
   Deluxe, luxe baths, in & outdoor showers – luxe pontoon boat for hippo viewing, some lions 
   Exc rest, service
Selinda Explorers Camp – 4 tents – 320,000 reserve rich in elephants, lions – custom designed
   Tents, Persian rugs – but also back to basics – very exp

Kalahari Desert – 
Tswalu – on edge of desert – cottage suites
 
Makgadikgadi Pans - -Kalahari - hr flt SE Maun – Dec to Apr best sightings
*Jack’s Camp www.uncharteredafrica.com – Harper ’13 – 10 tents - great pool, water hole for 
      Animal viewing – can walk with local San Bushmen hunter-gatherers – very well run
       10 guest stents – splendid pool
*San Camp – smaller sister of Jack’s
Camp Kalahari – affordable sister to Jack’s – 
                             
NE Pans – 
Sand Camp – 2x a night 

Madikwe – 25 miles from Botswana border NW
Madikwe Game Reserve – 5 Cape Dutch-style, one br villas – busy watering hole, GREAT
   Game sightings of all Big Five

GABORONE – African Horseback Safaris, Wilderness Safaris – Dine: L’Afrique, Original
                    Fishmonger 
Gaborone Sun
Grand Palm Hotel Casino resort
President Hotel

ZIMBABWE – Hwange National Park – Kalahari thick sand, Cecil & Bush lions killed

Harare – airport
Amanzi Lodge – 16 rm boutique hotel amid gardens, waterfalls - mod

Livingstone (Vic Falls) – VFA – easily accessible from Chobe Nat’l Park – 1 nite
**Royal Livingstone – deluxe
**Victoria Falls River Lodge – 9 tents on fab stretch of the Zambezi
**Victoria Falls Hotel – old, quite beautiful – beautiful gardens
Zambezi Sun Hotel – casual
Kingdom Hotel – had manicure
Meikles – 5* Hotel

Matetsi – 25 mi N of Vic Falls on Zambesi River
& Beyond Matetsi River Lodge – 18 contemp stes, 

Lake Karibu – Safari Lodge – super luxe – Bumi Hills

Hwange National Park – 
Wilderness Safaris Linkwasha Camp – luxe, pool & tents overlook water hole for all-year views

Mana Pools National Park – 
Wilderness Safaris Ruckomechi Camp – by Zambezi River - exp

Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve – 
Pamushana – Relais, luxe

ZAMBIA – Capital Lusaka – South Luangwa Nat’l Park, Lower Zambezi Nat’l Park – N bank
                     Of Zambezi River, Vic Falls
                    Bushcamp Company, Norman Carr Safaris, Wilderness Safaris

Lower Zambezi Valley – 
Baines River Camp – new level of luxury – 8 colonial-style stes
**Ana Tree Lodge – 8 luxe tents – very exp

Zambezi River – 11 miles upstream – 
The River Club – Harper – delightful -  www.wilderness-safaris.com
Chiawa Camp – river-view tents – family owned
Old Mondoro – accessed by boat – rustic sister to Chiawa 

Victoria Falls – 
Sanctuary Sussi & Chuma – lodge of 12 A/C tree houses – lovely – Harper
     Award 2010 - – 8 mi upstream from Vic Falls – game viewing by boat                         
Ana Tree – old camp being recast - $750
Thorntree River Lodge -  private plunge pools
Tongabezi Lodge - deluxe – on banks of Zambezi River
                            Sindabezi – also deluxe per Rosemary 
                            Tangala – home rental “          “   
**Lusaka – 
Zambezi Kulefu Camp (Apr to mid-Nov) – 7 tented suites - Harper Award 2010
           
Kafue National Park – Shumba Camp – 6 lavish “tents” – Harper – great game drives
                                     Wilderness Safaris – ’08 award

Liuwa Plain National Park – remote
King Lewanika Lodge – exp, good wildebeest migration site

South Luangwa Nat’l Park – 
**Tena Tena on river – Harper, great game viewing – fab guide
              Robin Pope owner info@robinpopesafaris.net 
Zebra Plains – opening June ’11 by Sanctuary Retreats
Chongewe River House &
Luangwa Safari House – www.safarihouses.com info@robinpopesafaris.net 
**Bushcamp Company – several camps
***Chinzombo – walking safaris - exp

Lower Zambezi National Park – across river from Zimbabwe – water, not dry like Luangwa 
**Chiawa Camp 
**Old Mondoro – more primitive sister of Chiawa – smaller – elephants are main draw

NAMIBIA – dramatic dunes – Skeleton Coast –hostile to human life, unearthly beauty
                     Namib-Naukluft Nat’l Park, Etosha Nat’l Park, NW Damaraland – fossilized
            Trees, desert elephants, haunting Skeleton Coast Nat’l Park, Wild about Africa tour
                     Micato Safaris – cool nights

Windhoek capital /only airport– Discover Africa – 888-330-4880 – DINE: Joe’s Beerhouse – 
                             For wild food – zebra etc
*Hotel Heinitzburg – Harper – Relais property in a castle
**Olive Exclusive – guesthouse with 11 rooms – nice - Harper – exp - cosmopolitan
                    Villa Verdi – inexp & quiet  

Namib-Naukluft Nat’l Park – hr flt Windhoek –
** Little Kulala - Harper – 11 stylish villas – very, very exp
              Balloon flights, hike blood-red dunes

North bank of Chobe River – 
Chobe Water Villas – 16 eco-chic villas over-the-water
NamiBrand Nature Reserve –
Wolwedans Private Camp – Harper - Land Rover excursions
                                               ** Wolwedans Dune Lodge – more upscale
                                                ** Wolwedans Boulders Camp – latest – 4 luxe bedroom tents  
Namib Desert – Kulala Wilderness Reserve
                           *Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp – Harper
                           Mwisho Camp – plain, adventures
                           Le Mirage Desert Lodge & Spa
Damaraland – 
Damaraland Camp – Harper – (canvas-walled suites rather than tents) hiking,
                        Herds of desert elephant, black rhino but not large game concentrations
Huab Lodge – wooded bush land
Mowani Mountain Camp – blends into red sandstone boulders
Desert Rhino Camp

Etosha National Park – 
**Little Ongava – Harper – abundant game – deluxe Wilderness Safaris
Ongava Lodge – bit less exp www.wilderness-safaris.com
Onguma Reserve - The Fort at Fisher’s Pan – like the Casbah www.onguma.com 
The Fort at Onguma – old elegance – verandah, fireplace in each room
Onguma Tree Top Camp – near Park – on wooden stilts

Twyfelfontein – SW of Etosha
Mowani Mountain Camp – thatched-roof open-air                              
                                      
Kaokoland – greener, NW – 
Okahirongo Elephant Lodge – very exp – rare desert elephants

Kunene River – 90 min n Ongava

Serra Cafema – Harper – wonderful – Wilderness Safaris – near Angolan border
Skeleton Coast Lodge
Serra Cafema Lodge – rms large & tasteful – each open to Kunene River  
**Burning Shores Beach Lodge – Brangelina’s spot

Swakopund – like a Bavarian village – on Atlantic
Desert Breeze Lodge – good dining 

Lesotho – Walrus Bay
Pelican Point Lodge – on Atlantic on fringe of sand, working lighthouse – very exp

MOZAMBIQUE – Language is Portuguese, visit dry season April-Sept, currency meticais 
                                Most pristine beaches on E coast of Africa
Maputo – SE coast – dine: Ungumi – best cuisine, 1908 – classic, more modest, Feira Popular
                On waterfront with lots of little spots, O’Coquiero – short taxi ride for mukuane 
Hotel Polana – elegant rms, sea views, one of Africa’s finest
Hotel Cardoso – overlooks sea - *rest

Just N at mouth of Limpopo River
Zongoene Lodge – little resort

Benguerra Island –
   Azura – most exclusive boutique retreat – ‘11Harper 

Vilanculos – Vilanculos Wildlife Sanctuary
   **Dugong Beach Lodge – white sand peninsula – fab spot

Nyerere – 
Hotel Polana

Quirimbas Archipelago – chain of 31 islands, national park off N. Mozambique
    Bush plane from Pemba where connecting flight from Nairobi – 2 hrs, Jo’burg 3 hrs
Azura at Quilalea – villas from $525 pp per nite – thatched villas simple, beautiful
   Can take speedboat to nearby Ibo Island – old Arab port

Ibo Island – worth an overnight
Ibo Island Lodge - $335 pp – 14 rm inn spead across 3 faded colonial mansions sea edge

North Coast

Vamizi Island – deluxe, glorious Journey’s By Design 212-568-7639
Vamizi Island Lodge - exp 

Short boat ride from 16th century colonial Portuguese capital Ilha de Moçambique
Coral Lodge – 10 villa property – on peninsula – plush amenities - exp
Quirimbas – 
Ibo Island Lodge – trio of colonial-era mansions – exp

Baixo do Pinda Peninsula – 100 miles N of Ilha de Moçambique 
Nuarro – tucked in lush dunes, 12 thatched-roof bungalows – exp

Quilálea Island – Bazaruto National Park – 
Harper – Azura – large marine reserve, villas on low stilts, comfortable
         Beach villas $575, Infinity Beach Villa - $675 - wonderful
     Popular Celeb destination – exp – charming, great dining, on Indian Ocean, PADI dive center

MADAGASCAR – Island East of Mozambique – National Parks: Isalo National Park, Analamazaotra Special Reserve, Mantadia National Park, Montagne d’Ambre, Ranomafana
Nosy Komba – 
Tsara Komba - open-air bungalows along jungle above beach
Nosy-Be – Vanila Hotel
Menabe Sakalava - N Majunga 
Anjajavy L’Hotel

Joffreville – 
Le Domaine de Fontenay 
Isalo – 
Relais de la Reine
Andasibe –
Vakôna Forest Lodge

Private Island – north – mainland 2 miles away
Miavana – snorkel, dive, fishing great - 

WEST AFRICA – Senegal, Liberia, Cote D’Ivoire, Mauritania, Cameroon, Gabon,
Mali, Guinea, Mauritania, Togo, Benin, Lagos, Ghana, Liberia, Sierra Leone, The Gambia, Burkina Faso, Chad, Sudan, Timbuktu – less game than E Africa, great markets, on-site
  Workshops: Benigne – voodoo – each have sacred forest (men only)

Tarzan country – art centers, ancient stoneware

SENEGAL
Dakar – Visit Île de Gorée – 18th century slave depot 3 miles off coast – UNESCO site – check 
              Out art as Espace Cultural VEMA, shop house wares at Artefact. Dine at Ozio, club
              Scene at Club Thiossane, café – Pâtisserie Les Ambassades 
Le Méridien President (Starwood) 800-543-4300
                Sobo Bade – 30 rooms on beach www.sobobade.com
       Hotel Sokhamon – cheap
     DINE: Chez Loutcha – lunch NITELIFE: ultra cool Just 4 U, Thiossane   

GABON – www.gabonnationalparks.com 
Loango National Park – Loango Lodge
Invindo National Park – great game viewing
Lope National Park – gorillas, mandrill monkeys, 400 species of birds
Libreville – Hotel Tropicana – cheap opposite airport on beach, very lively
                    Inter-Continental Okoume Palace – more upscale

      Chief’s House – 3 contemp African BRs – Colonel’s House – 2 colonial BRs – Eyrie House - 
      1 modern BR - **Sultan’s House – 1 exotic BR with spell-binding décor, sunken tub – bliss
      Great food – good family spot – not usual safari spot – can ride horses, camels, bikes

CAMEROON – Tour operator Sofitoul SA – www.sofitoul.com best for variety, professionalism – fly into Duala

Duala – Best flight option – from Paris or Brussels
Meridien – best
Siwa – fine option
Toun-gee – fine option

Youande – 
Hilton – best
Hotel Mensal – less pricey

 

MALI
Bamako – Kempinski El Farouk
                 Sofitel L’Amitie 

TOGO – N part live in mini two-story castles, fishing villages on stilts – 
                Lome has great fetish market

OTHER - Djibouti, Ethiopia, Angola, Somalia, 

Ethiopia – Fly to capital Addis Ababa – 7-day trip incl Bale Mountains and Lake Awassa 

Addis Ababa – capital
Sheraton Addis – lots of dining options, pool, spa - mod
Bale Mountain Lodge – only high-end lodge – hiking, riding, bird-watching
Sabana Beach Resort – no-frills on shores of Lake Langano – super cheap

CENTRAL AFRICA – Republic of the Congo, Democratic Republic of the Congo

Odzala-Kokoua National Park – Wilderness Safari camps – rugged for the fit only
**Lango is the prettier
Ngaga Camp – 6 comfortable, simple 7 gorilla families

ERITREA – NE – south of Egypt
Asmara – Dine: Ristorante da Silla, Ghidey’s – home cooking, Blue Nile, Selam Restaurant
Hotel Inter-Continental – high-end
Hotel Ambasoira – cheap

                   

       
MIDDLE EAST

Abu Dhabi – UAE – richest of Emirates - stands for government – visit Guggenheim, Louvre, 
                       Zayed National Museum
Jumeirah at Etihad Towers - downtown – sky high, clubby feel in lounge
Emirates Palace (Kempinski 800-426-3135) – opulent, mod
Kempinski Djibouti Palace – 3 hrs Dubai
Rocco Forte Collection – downtown - 888-667-9477 – European feel, Mark Hix restaurant
   Grand, 281 rms – 3 rests
Hyatt Capital Gate – downtown – tilts 18 degrees west, gleaming
Le Bristol
Ritz-Carlton
Hyatt
Intercontinental    
Meridien
Hilton

Saadiyat Island – 10 min drive from downtown – future home of Guggenheim & Louvre
St Regis – 377 spacious rms overlooking white sand, 7 rest & lounges
Park Hyatt – 18 hole golf course

Yas Island – 
Yas Viceroy – futuristic – 499 rms, 

Monte-Carlo Beach Club – spa, poolside cabanas, gulf-front rest
            Shangri-La
             Beach Rotana
           Hilton Abu Dhabi
In a wadi outside – 
Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort – Anantara – 206 rm deluxe, fantasy-like

Bahrain - Island
Manama – Ritz-Carlton Bahrain Hotel & Spa – on water
Regency Intercontinental 

Dubai –UAE NYC- www.dubaiturism.com  (Big Bus hop-on, hop-off $48 tour around city)
              Ski Dubai, world’s largest indoor ski hill at Mall of Emirates
Armani Hotel Dubai – in Burj Khalifa (world’s tallest bldg) – cool marble, zebra wood
** Burj Khalifa Dubai – world’s tallest building – very very exp
he Palm – low-rise Moorish – starts at 1,150
Ritz-Carlton – Bali-like spa
Four Seasons – mod
St Regis - mod
One & Only Royal Mirage – low exp
Palace Downtown – great views from pool
Palazzo Versace – exp – Dubai Creek in Culture Village – 215 rms, 169 condos 1-6 br
Orient Guest House – cheap
Arabian Courtyard Hotel & Spa – cheap

Jumeirah 
**Jumeirah Beach Hotel – closets to Wild Wadi Water Park – Castle shopping
** Burj Al Arab – Jumeirah Beach – 7 sailed 7* hotel – out of sight exp
* Madinat Jumeirah – next to Burj
** Jumeirah Emirates Towers - moderate
Al Qasr - *Jumeirah beach
One & Only Royal Mirage - mod
Mina A’Salam - *Jumeirah beach – hi-mod
Dar Al Masyaf - *Jumeirah beach – low-exp                  
One & Only The Palm Dubai –  www.atlantisthepalm.com – waterfront dining – Large, opulent 
   large spaaquarium, mega resort – man-made Palm Island gateway - Moorish low-rise
One & Only Royal Mirage – high mod    
InterContinental – alisha.arora@ichdfc.ae 
Towers Retana Hotel - inexp 
Al Khaleej Palace - inexp   
Le Meridien Mina Seyahi Beach – relatively moderate 
Jumeirah Al Nassem – mod – 430 rms, in massive Madinat Jumeirah Resort
20 min S. of city - ** Desert Palm – mod, cluster of colonial & Arabian bldgs, 24 luxe
              Suites & villas with private pools & enclosed gardens – 150 acre estate, 
XVA - cheap     
                            
Wafi City – 
Raffles Dubai
                  Royal Mirage Hotel
                  Desert Palm spa retreat – mod www.desertpalm.ae 
Park Hyatt – great Thai rest 
                  Hilton Dubai Creek – close to shopping
                 **One & Only (Givenchy Spa) – Jumeirah Beach
                  Grosvenor House – near marina
Kempinski – at Mall of the Emirates – adjacent to indoor ski slope
                Orient Guest House – cheap www.orientguesthouse.com – historic charm
                 Palace  (Old Town island) – The Old Town – mod 
                Arabian Courtyard Hotel & Spa - inexpensive
              Emirates Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa (elegant Bedouin tent-villa)
                            Armani Hotel – coming end of ’08 in Burj Dubai, worlds tallest building

Desert – 
**Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa – off Al Ain Hwy – Starwood Luxury Collection – 
Pretty amazing - - Suzanne – approx 50 min drive from downtown & airport
The 'desert safari staff' is all from South Africa! – many activities – very exp

Jumeirah Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa – deluxe, mod – 45 min from town center

Doha – visit Oct to April – on Persian Gulf SE Dubai
Four Seasons Hotel Doha – mod
Ritz-Carlton Doha– hi-mod
Ritz-Carlton Sharq Village & Spa – mod – modeled after a traditional Middle East town